A new offer from France: the Chronometre watch by Pascal Coyon

Jul 17, 2014,15:32 PM
 

Far from the Jura mountains and close to the sunny beaches of the South West of France is located Pascal Coyon's workshop. And I can tell you that this region between Hossegor and Biarritz may become in a few months more than a pure surf spot but a true credible watchmaking center! Actually, I'm very proud to show you the latest prototypes from Pascal Coyon since I always try to support the projects from my country which used to be one of the key horological areas.

Pascal Coyon is a very gifted watchmaker from the Champagne region in the East of France. Attracted by a new life and maybe a better weather, he moved to the South West to open his workshop dedicated at the beginning to watches & clocks restoration or repairings. 3 years ago, the idea to create his own watch came to his mind and so he launched his project with the following principles:

- the watch had to be affordable and not only dedicated to the very wealthy collectors
- it had to be a tribute to the golden age of watchmaking, when a lot of care to details was brought to the movements, the years 1900s (and it is the reason why the movement bears the name 1900)
- it also had to be relialable and easy to be serviced
- and of course, like any good watchmaker, Pascal Coyon was also focused on the chronometric performances of the movement

Red figures - 42mm case with 45° inclined bezel:













 





For all these reasons, he made the choice to start from an Unitas base but with the objective to achieve a caliber which would look like the Longines 19.70 with grained finishings and flawless beveled bridges... without forgetting the very specific regulating organ based on the use of what we call in French a "virgule" (a comma).

Actually, for this production process, Pascal Coyon takes the Unitas movement, removes the moving parts for further use and then redesign almost everything including of course the bridges (made of brass). The first idea when the concept came to his mind was to apply on the movement a yellow gold coating in order to be very faithful to the 1900s spirit. I love this type of finishings which make me think about some Ballouard's movements and which bring a high contrast between the moving parts and the bridges. Following some remarks and requests from clients, two other finishings are available: pink gold coating (with a copper feel) which make us think about some vintage Omega calibers (but of course they came later than during the years 1900s) and which is the most original one and  rhodium plating, at the end the most sober one. Pascal Coyon will produce 20 movements per type of finishings so a grand total of 60 movements.

Yellow gold finishings:










The production rhythm is and will be slow: the first delivery is expected to occur at Fall 2014 but the orders made now (directly to his workshop or through his Facebook page) will be delivered not before end of quarter two 2015. This delay can be explained very easily by the production process: the plate and the bridges are made in-house at the workshop and the parts are also finished at the same place using tools... and some secret techniques! The polished effect is made thanks to diamond powder and oil on a zinc plate. I would like to give you an example of the quality of the finishings: even the beveling and chanfering of the circle around the ratchet wheel are perfectly done... and you have to consider that it is very difficult to reach this quality of execution since you can't go through the plate with the tool because there is no hole! A very difficult gesture which requires a lot of skills and patience!  You only have to observe the beauty of the three movements to understand why these watches have something special: they really put the Unitas on a galaxy never reached before if I don't take into account Lang&Heyne, a galaxy in which we only have to appreciate the perfect lay-out of the movement and the sensual shapes of its bridges.

42mm case with gadroon:


















The regulating organ is a true eye-catcher... this comma allows to get a micrometric setting while, being less demanding for the mainspring. But if we forget the technical point of view, we can spend hours watching the shape of this comma! Unitas base oblige, the movement has a 2,5hz frequency which is obviously a very good point: I appreciate these slow-mo movements, their large balance wheels which are totally coherent with the spirit of the watch.

Pink Gold finishings:









One of the most interesting points of the project is that the Unitas movement is also modified in its lay-out: the distance between the hands axis is changed since the second hand axis is moved by 1mm to the center of the dial. Why this change? Only to make the dial more balanced. If you observe watches based on an Unitas, you may feel that the second hand subdial is a bit too small and located too close to the bezel (which is a far better feeling that 95% of the watches with their second hand too close to the center!). Anyway, by moving this axis, Pascal Coyon is able to enlarge the subdial and so to make the dial more balanced. Frankly speaking, I highly appreciate this kind of detail.

3 types of finishings:









Speaking about the dial, two versions are currently available: with or without red 12 and 60. Of course, we can find here another tribute to the pocket watches from the past. The dial is not made in-house but the provider did a great job. The dial is made of 6 layers, each one being polished. It is the reason why we can observe a slight effect of volume on the figures.

41mm case:













Their design is very classic, without any surprise: don't expect any originality here, we are in the very well-known territory with the railroad and the index shapes. At least, this conservative approach is once again coherent with what we see when we turn over the watch and Pascal Coyon avoids a design flaw! Two types of blued hands can be used: Marine hands, my fav ones and Breguet hands (aiguilles pomme as we say in French).

At this stage, the weakest element of the watch comes from the stainless-steel case. 3 different cases are available (with brushed or polished finishings), two with a 42mm diameter (with or without gadroon) and one with a 41mm diameter. I found the two 42mm ones a bit too generic and obviously this feeling is due to the fact that I saw them elsewhere before. The 41mm is more interesting with a slender style and I found it more elegant. 41mm is the minimum size available due to the own diameter of the movement. There is another difference to be highlighted: the glass of the 41mm case has a slightly domed shape (which made the pictures more tricky to take!). Whatever is the case, it is easy to handle the crown. As you can see it on the pictures, one of the watches feature an onion-shaped crown, I think that this option will be available but I'm not sure since Pascal Coyon prefers the classic crown here (so do I).

Rhodiumed finishings:








Putting any of these watches on the wrist is pure pleasure if your heart appreciates classic watchmaking and design. The Chronometer from Pascal Coyon is a watch without any true surprise when worn but with a timeless design. In a sense, their true beauty is hidden and when you observe the movement you have the feeling to be back to the roots of watchmaking when the quest for chronometry was the key objective: the finishings didn't have a decorative purpose, they were applied to improve the performance of the movement. With Pascal Coyon's watches, I have the same feeling. Actually, the watches will be delivered with a chronometric bulletin from the Besançon Observatoire. It will be also stated on the movement with the presence of the viper head seal between the balance wheel bridge and the barrel bridge. This seal is of course not visible on the prototypes. Since we are talking here about the Observatoire de Besançon and its bulletins, it will be the full watch (and not only the movement) which will be tested during several days.

3 watches together:






As you understood it, I am under the charm of these watches which symbolize for me a very valuable watchmaking approach: a tribute to classic watchmaking, a great care to details... with an affordable price. Because here is, at least for me, the biggest surprise of this French offer: the price of each watch, whatever are the case shape, the movement finishings is around 4.950 euros French VAT included. I have to confess that I couldn't resist and I ordered one. I'm sure about the case: I will take the 41 one because it is the most elegant and its size is enough for me. I'm also sure about the hands: the Marine ones. But I'm still thinking about the presence or not of red figures and what would be the movement colour... decision, decision! Anyway, I know that with any option I will choose I will be happy with the watch. I would like to congratulate Pascal Coyon for this impressive achievement.

Thanks a lot to Pascal Coyon for his availablity during his stay in Paris.

Fr.Xavier

Pros:
+ superb movement rendering with impressive finishings
+ the beauty of the regulating organ
+ the slight change of the movement lay-out to get the dial balance
+ the price

Cons:
- the cases especially the 42mm ones seem a bit too generic

This message has been edited by foversta on 2014-07-17 16:23:37


More posts: Ludovic Ballouard

  login to reply

Comments: view entire thread

 

Thanks for the report! I have been.....

 
 By: KIH : July 17th, 2014-16:25
.. wondering about his watches, following on FB and how to order, etc.... Now I know and thank you so much for the details, Fx! Ken

Thanks for this report, Fx.

 
 By: CaliforniaJed : July 17th, 2014-16:30
I have been drooling over Pascal's photographs for weeks. What is not to like about this creation? The traditional approach to the case, dial and hands tugs at a PuristS heartstrings. Knowing that he modified the layout of the Unitas to allow for better p... 

Thanks Jed. Actually...

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:17
I had the same idea in my mind, when I saw them I thought that they were good "Purists" watches! Fx

I really really like it...

 
 By: SALMANPK : July 17th, 2014-17:53
Great Review and thank you for bringing this watchmaker to my attention. S

Love it!

 
 By: social : July 17th, 2014-19:17
did you place your order directly in his fb? any deposit?

For any order...

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:18
I recommend to contact directly Pascal Coyon through his FB page. He will provide you with the details once back from Paris. Fx

Thanks for this report!,

 
 By: Rubar : July 17th, 2014-19:31
You ansvered most of my questions. Some time ago I contacted with Pascal Coyon on FB. I have also been very impressed with the level of finishing and classic design of the watches and did a little rewiew on the Russian forum. Unfortunately at that time I ... 

Hi Ruben...

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:20
I will ask about the case heights, I have to confess that I forgot to ask him. About the case finishings, yes you can ask for specific finishings. Thanks. Fx

Thanks!

 
 By: Rubar : July 18th, 2014-13:38
I will add that you need make a deposit of 2000 euros to the order.

Yes correct.

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-14:08
But for the order details, I prefer that people contact him directly. Fx

Information cases

 
 By: pascal coyon : July 21st, 2014-08:56
Hello Ruben Sorry for not answering your old request! Information boxes: 41mm without crown: Thickness (without curved glass): 8mm Fully polished case 42mm without crown: Thickness: 11mm Choice of two cases with hand brushed or polished Two choices of bez... 

Welcome here M. Coyon...

 
 By: pplater : July 21st, 2014-17:21
It is always a pleasure to read the comments of the watchmakers we follow. Congratulations on a fine piece, and best wishes for success. (It seems you may have that already!) It would be interesting to know your own influences, and preferences, in horolog... 

with pleasure

 
 By: pascal coyon : July 23rd, 2014-08:07
thank you for your interest in my work as a watchmaker! I have difficulty communicating in English, I apologize for my language errors ... Having worked 15 years in the antique clocks, my tastes in this direction. I appreciate the respect for watchmaking ... 

Your Timepieces

 
 By: roland6585 : July 22nd, 2014-07:24
Dear Pascal, I am very interested in your timepieces. I am Roland REN (Chinese) in Geneva,Switzerland. Please contact me : roland6585@ or 0041/79/7269038 . Best Regards Roland

Courriel

 
 By: pascal coyon : July 23rd, 2014-08:10
Hello there I do not know if the email address is allowed here. If not, correct me ... (a) best regards

Agreed on the 42 mm case. The godrons contrast with the shape of the lugs.

 
 By: amanico : July 17th, 2014-21:56
A bit too weird, aesthetically. The 41 mm case is much more interesting, the bezel is more my taste, and the lugs are better shaped for a Watch like this. The Red 12 is so typical from the watches of this time that it would have been a pity to not use it.... 

Fx includes the price toward the end of the post, Nicolas.

 
 By: CaliforniaJed : July 17th, 2014-23:03
Looks to be 4950 Euros, inclusive of French VAT. Best, CaliforniaJed

Beautiful regulator!

 
 By: lhk1 : July 19th, 2014-16:19
Thanks for the great post. Regards Ling

PS: Two more observations.

 
 By: amanico : July 17th, 2014-23:20
1/ The bezel on the 41 mm: a flat and large one, or a two step bezel, would have been a killing detail, since we are on to it... 2/ Bravo on the choice of the Observatory! Best, Nicolas

I didn't have any hesitation at the end...

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:21
I chose the 41mm case in 2 seconds. The problem is now to choose the dial and the movement. And it is difficult. I tend to think the same about the red figures but at the end I think that I prefer to see them all with the same colour. I will see... Thanks... 

Thorough review and handsome watches

 
 By: Ares501 - Mr Green : July 18th, 2014-00:17
Somehow dial side look to Lange for me specially the iteration with red 12 it looks too much Langematik Anniversary but of course regarding the goals that watchmaker posed we can't expect not to have such similarity great side is affordability...chronomet... 

Thanks Damjan!

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:22
And we don't have to forget the Chronometre from Vacheron! The first pieces also had this red 12! Fx

It's very nice but very bland too, no?

 
 By: Mostel : July 18th, 2014-00:36
It reminds me of some of the modern Longines trying to evoke something supremely classic but missing something somehow... Of course these are far nicer than modern Longines. I would not get the red 12 if I were choosing-- I love it on the Lange anniversar... 

Yes thanks Nicolas.

 
 By: Mostel : July 22nd, 2014-21:50
:)

Thanks Mostel for your comments!

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:38
You are raising some valid points. I think that with time, his approach will become more personal. It is maybe also a question of trust. Fx

i share the same exact thoughts [nt]

 
 By: aldossari_faisal : July 22nd, 2014-20:15

This is a watchmaker who respects watchmaking

 
 By: Mark in Paris : July 18th, 2014-02:11
We feel that all the way he is respecting historical watchmaking principles. Not a watch mainly powered for marketting purposes. He respects and seems to achieve a high level of finishing and technical guidelines. A project prepared in every details, with... 

I'm following Pascal Coyon work ...

 
 By: nilomis : July 18th, 2014-06:30
On FB and I'm glad that the watches are ready to be ordered. Love the 41mm with the Breguet hands. If I live in Europe, for sure I had ordered one. Thanks for the presentation. Nilo

Thanks Nilo for your comments! About the Breguet hands...

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:40
it is funny but I much prefer the marine ones! I don't know, maybe because I prefer the Breguet hands... in a Breguet context! Fx

Hey FX, I've been watching this guy...

 
 By: elliot55 : July 18th, 2014-07:34
... for a few months now. The work is superb. Thanks for the killer report - now I want one even more! - Scott

Happy to see the watches being finalised

 
 By: Clavi : July 18th, 2014-09:05
I have been following the developments of what started as a project I think four years ago. Actually, I remember discussing it in its early days with Pascal at a time he was still working on superb restorations - and in fact several of my JLCs have receiv...  

Was thinking the same as your last comment, when looking at the movement.

 
 By: amanico : July 18th, 2014-09:10
It has to be said, as it is a superb work... And not mafly priced, which will change us from what we see in the modern offer.... Best, Nicolas

Thanks Clavi for your remarks.

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:52
I don't have the feeling to have emphasized too much the use of the Unitas base since I explained the change of bridges and plate and even of the lay-out... in a few words, he almost starts from scratch! And more important: the result speaks by itself. Th... 

Great review Fx! thank you for the detailed review

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : July 18th, 2014-09:15
I love the movements (all 3 finishings). Seems like a pretty good value for a French Indie watch! Hope they will have smaller watches say 39mm in future. Even more classical case size for such a classical watch Cheers Robin

At this stage, no, a smaller version won't be available...

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-13:54
due to the size of the movement. The 41mm case is the minimum. Maybe later with another movement! Thanks Robin! Fx

Thanks for the report. How would one order without going through...

 
 By: Ronald Held : July 18th, 2014-13:52
FB? Any data on the chronometric performance?

You can contaxct him by email...

 
 By: foversta : July 18th, 2014-14:07
I can give it too you by PM. About the chronometric performances, each watch will have its bulletin de marche and will be certified if it respects the criteria as follows: Best regards. Fx ...  

If its not too much trouble..

 
 By: SALMANPK : July 18th, 2014-17:44
Would appreciate his email as well. Thank You, S

Done! [nt]

 
 By: foversta : July 19th, 2014-00:46

May I also have his email please?

 
 By: social : July 19th, 2014-19:22
thank you!

PM sent! [nt]

 
 By: foversta : July 20th, 2014-15:07

Thank you Fx!

 
 By: social : July 21st, 2014-20:35
I've placed my order already. :)

.... Design matters...

 
 By: Goldenlutin : July 18th, 2014-16:48
You are right, the finish of the movement (except the wheels which are not chamfered) is outstanding and beats all the brands in the same price league. The only "sad" thing is that the watches do not offer anything new or fresh and that the cases don't sh... 

Thanks Goldenlutin for your remarks.

 
 By: foversta : July 19th, 2014-00:49
Why the Unitas is not a good base for chronometric performances? Anyway, there are so many changes here (even the axis were reduced (from 0.12 to 0.10) to make the moves more fluid) that I am not very worried. ;) Fx

Thanks for the Wonderful Post FX. May I also...

 
 By: Darren : July 19th, 2014-10:06
Have Pascal's e-mail address? Darren

PM sent. [nt]

 
 By: foversta : July 19th, 2014-11:32

Some "precisions"

 
 By: Goldenlutin : July 19th, 2014-10:48
The reason is that the Unitas 6497/6498 is meant to be cheap and mass produced. Therefore the tolerances are big which is not good for chronometer precision. If you ask any watchmaker, he will tell you the same story. Then a 2.5 hertz movement is not as e... 

Thanks Goldenlutin.

 
 By: foversta : July 19th, 2014-15:03
Yes and it is the reason why he replaces the balance wheel, changed the size of the axis to reduce the friction etc... Best regards. Fx

Marvellous!...

 
 By: pplater : July 18th, 2014-19:55
Order placed! :-) Thank you for this comprehensive oversight, FX. Mostel's comments are quite perceptive: the watch does have many echoes of the familiar. However, that is true of very many watches at all levels. M. Coyon distinguishes himself by his subm... 

PM sent [nt]

 
 By: foversta : July 19th, 2014-08:31

Very nice review FX

 
 By: gael_bx : July 19th, 2014-06:10
thanks for this detailled presentation with great pictures... as usual ;-)

Very very nice...

 
 By: DonCorson : July 19th, 2014-11:42
Of course the case is also very generic, we have seen them often before, but considering the time obviously spent on the movement for this price easily acceptable. Moving the seconds hand 1mm farther from the center makes a big difference on the dial. It ... 

Thanks Don for your comments!

 
 By: foversta : July 19th, 2014-11:48
And coming from you, it is another proof of the quality of the work done by Pascal Coyon. Best regards. Fx

Thank you

 
 By: pascal coyon : July 21st, 2014-08:24
Don thank you for the compliments. You, it gives me great pleasure! Best regards. Pascal Coyon

Wonderful article and an extremely well balanced

 
 By: timerider : July 19th, 2014-12:00
presentation of a watchmaker I had only slight knowledge of until now. This is really an excellent concept and the execution will be well worth the wait. Please send me the contact information in PM as I have already made the mental commitment. Best to al... 

Thanks a lot Tim for your comments.

 
 By: foversta : July 19th, 2014-15:01
Here is his address: pascal dot kronos at orange dot fr Best regards. Fx

Thank you!

 
 By: timerider : July 19th, 2014-15:12
.

....

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : July 24th, 2014-10:43
.....did you get my PM?

How to choose between three colors?

 
 By: social : July 20th, 2014-19:00
They are all beautifully made but I still struggle in making a choice.... the rhodium is most shinny and reflects light... the pink shows an attractive vintage copper feel... (reminds those OMEGA) the yellow is so eye-catching and echos to 1900s... what d... 

Historical colors

 
 By: pascal coyon : July 21st, 2014-08:34
Hello there. My initial idea was to respect the watchmaking codes, years around 1900. The yellow color was natural ... The white rhodium was required in current production. Watch lovers have me ask edit a series pink, like vintage Omega ... Good choice. b... 

Thanks for your idea!

 
 By: social : July 21st, 2014-20:34
...I made up my mind now! I'm feeling very happy and excited in waiting my piece! (and loupe is well-prepared to see your amazing work) Thank you for your hard work!

Nice presentation FX

 
 By: ztirual : July 21st, 2014-15:04
I am curious learning about the watchmaker's inspiration, or possible direct influence for the movement of this nice watch. Is this movement a new creation or a leaf taken form older watch movement design? Is there a specific movement from a particular ma... 

As I wrote it...

 
 By: foversta : July 22nd, 2014-11:34
the movement is inspired by a Longines 19.70 Thanks! Fx

A most beautiful and welcome achievement!

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : July 22nd, 2014-07:55
I really love the concept of a chronometry-centered timepiece, executed in the tradition of watchmaking mastery - at least on the back! Like others I agree that the design is a but generic, and it would be most instructive to be able to extract a bit more... 

I agree with you...

 
 By: Goldenlutin : July 22nd, 2014-10:20
I agree with you, an engraved dial like old ship chronometers or deck watches would be just great. Better than enamel-alike lacquered. But again, the movement is so beautiful that he could print a Hello Kitty on the dial that I would not even care :)

François, please forward Goldenlutin's proposal as well...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : July 22nd, 2014-13:16
nothing beats a real world test for his statement regarding the Hello Kitty motif ;-) cheers, Magnus

Thanks Magnus!

 
 By: foversta : July 22nd, 2014-11:35
I think that your dial idea is very interesting! Something to forward to Pascal Coyon for the future! Fx

PM sent ! [nt]

 
 By: foversta : July 23rd, 2014-11:13

merci. Kenavo

 
 By: mphilippe : July 23rd, 2014-11:21

did you get my PM?

 
 By: Baron - Mr Red : July 24th, 2014-07:40

PM ?

 
 By: pascal coyon : July 24th, 2014-10:39
Hello Baron No, I have not received anything! Simpler by email: (a) best regards Pascal Coyon

Hello Pascal

 
 By: SALMANPK : July 24th, 2014-12:11
Hope all is well, I replied to your email with my details, awaiting your confirmation and reply. Have a Great Day :-) Salman

W O N D E R F U L L !!!

 
 By: Bruno.M1 : July 29th, 2014-01:22
Looking at the work that went into that piece, lookig at the level of finishing and than looking at the price ... this is imo the most interesting offer I saw in the last 15 years. Ordered mine, so did one of my frineds and I have a feeling more people I ... 

Congratz Bruno! [nt]

 
 By: Mark in Paris : July 29th, 2014-04:49

Thanks for the report fx

 
 By: ED209 : August 3rd, 2014-00:02
I've never heard of Pascal Coyon watches but these look nice. Thanks for this report. Regards, ED-209

I ordered one! Anyone else?

 
 By: chris russell : August 5th, 2014-10:39
This watch really does it for me. I am very much in favor of the movement taking up the entire case, no movement-ring or other space-waster. I especially like the idea of placing the seconds pivot halfway between the center pivots and the edge of the dial... 

PM sent [nt]

 
 By: foversta : August 12th, 2014-02:02

Thanks a lot

 
 By: madaboutwatches : August 14th, 2014-14:16
Nt