Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
Baselworld 2014 - Reaction to smartwatch boom: AHCI to switch focus on electronic watches!
Mar 31, 2014,12:30 PM
In a rather unexpected and unprecedented move the world-famous association of independent watchmakers, l'Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), today revealed what insider believe to be one of the most industry-shaking decisions the group enacted in its entire existence:
With immediate effect, AHCI members are required to
"...advance the art of electronic timekeeping, in a way that reflects and develops the concept of fine watchmaking and the spirit of creative freedom the AHCI is known for. AHCI members are expected to engage into respective project and/or start producing electronic watches at their earliest convenience, but not later that after the summer break of 2014. [...] The overarching goal is to demonstrate our capabilities right in time for our 30th anniversary year 2015." [excerpt from AHCI Press Kit]
The decision was arrived at after critical evaluation and intense debate. The main rationale for the this move is seen in the fact that independent watchmaking is under pressure from several angles: For one, the main industrialised watchbands are offering more and more daring movements and watches worthy the AHCI badge, and on the other side it has to be recognised that the emerging trend of smart watches still seeks an answer.
AHCI veteran Paul Gerber notes: 'I don't see myself programming timekeeping apps or creating cool cases for iPhones. Besides, I only use Windows phones where developing both products are futile due to lack of a significant market anyway!' Paul is seconded by further AHCI members: 'The is a vast open and underdeveloped space of fine electronic watches which usually show little of the shiny haute horlogerie conception', Kari Voutilainen says. 'I always have been considered the infant terrible of the AHCI, often ridiculed, but this time I could prove I was indeed right on track, already over 10 years back', adds Vianney Halter, and proudly shows off one of his HTO watches:
But how do AHCI watchmakers see their contribution to the new direction of their homeland? We had intense discussions behind closed doors, and after quite some convincing effort a few master watchmakers agreed to let us glimpse into their treasure chests!
Let's start with Kari Voutilainen:
Kari is one of the gods of finest watchmaking, so for him entering the world of batteries and stepping motors seems to be particularly difficult. But being finish by birth adverse weathers are nothing to fear. Voutilainen has a running prototype movement just completed, and the family ties to his previous work readily visible:
'I am glad to be able to make use of my existing movement parts', Kari says,
'so adaptation is not that painful to me. However, I am not at all satisfied with the finish of high end batteries available today on the market, so I will have to finish them in my atelier.' Rumor has it that a certain group of Northern Californian collectors already commissioned the first batch of the
Kari Voutilainen 'Tesla' watches, but with the specific custom modification of covering the battery with an unused mainspring barrel. That would solve the battery finishing problem for generations to come…
Known for not being afraid to tackle challenges that are up to now considered being unsurmountable, AHCI member
Thomas Prescher approached electronic ticking his very own way:
His 'Captain Nemo Submer-lectro' makes the best of the new situation and transforms the necessary batteries into integral aspects of the design. Prescher makes the point that there is actually no point in hiding the new electronic nature of the watches, instead, makers should be honest and frank about it.
He goes as far as to identify new areas of watchmaking independence: 'Who knows when the two quasi-monopolists for batteries, Duracell and Energizer, is deciding to cut supply to small watch brands? You better are prepared, and this is exactly what I will be!', and then he shows us a working (!) prototype of his new in-house fuel-cell which will be compatible with the Submer-lectro:
With a history as captain of a German army vessel Thomas Prescher admits that his new nautical themed and fuel cell powered watch is like seafarer's dream to him:
'Its like steering your own submarine!' He notes however that as of now the costs for a set of these cells is prohibitive. Prescher is in negotiations with other watch brands, notably
his friend Max Büsser, to establish common standards for watch fuel cells that ensure interoperability. Another avenue he is considering is a rental or even a lease-and-lease-back scheme.
But this all only the start of a medium term future. Watchmakers need to familiarise themselves with completely new skills. This is where
Paul Gerber steps in. Involved in training of watchmakers since several decades, Mr Gerber took up the task to develop curricula for future generations of watchmakers.
Already as of the upcoming semester at the watchmaking school of Grenchen, aspiring horological pupils can enrol in a first specialised course in electronic timekeeping. in line with the AHCI's new guidelines the focus will be in the development of new movements. Like with the standard courses, students will work a lot with
school movements.
Paul Gerber is testing in his atelier various candidate movement kits, which is currently evaluates for their utility in training programmes. If it weren't for all these electronic parts, there is actually little difference to the movement kits of the past:
A kit called
'Motor W2 C' is the current incumbent. It is sufficiently complex, the parts are widely available and it contains internal monitoring indicators. Paul Gerber is particularly satisfied that the kit is powerful and flexible enough to be amenable for modifications such as the addition of further complications - an important aspect since such improvements are part of the final examination watchmakers have to pass!
Initial results and further details shall be discussed in an upcoming event co-orgnaised with the , entitled
"Les smartwatches une opportunité pour l'horlogerie suisse?" (engl.: Smartwatches, an opportunity for the Swiss watchmaking industry?).
Any critical voices? You bet! Nobody else than finishing guru
Philippe Dufour refuses to follow the new directives:
'If we cannot any longer communicate to the market the intrinsic values of the finest watchmaking products we create I'll have no alternative than to cancel my AHCI membership with immediate effect', Dufour says.
'I even consider opening a last 10 slots for my blockbuster Simplicity watch, for a final 'Simplicity HEP' * edition!'
These times are indeed full of suspense - more to come very soon!
Magnus
*) HEP=l'horlogerie est perdu (=
watchmaking is lost)
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2014-03-31 12:35:52