Yesterday, during a gathering with friends, I had the opportunity to handle and shoot the Chronometre 27 from Kari Voutilainen.
Like the Observatoire, this watch is an excellent way for us to discover an historical caliber which was developed (by Longines) in order to improve the chronometric performance.
The Observatoire :
The Peseux of the Observatoire is the symbol of the period in which the best rates were reached with 2,5hz calibers and with big balance wheel.
The caliber 27 is different : it's the step ahead, the period in which the frequency was getting higher to improve the accuracy.
Strangely, it's a rectangular shape caliber. So it gave the ability to Kari to build this original watch.
Here it comes :
We were several times surprised while handling the watch :
1st surprise : the size ! It's huge !
2nd surprise : the case shape with integrated lugs
3rd surprise : it's a regulator !
Hours : up subdial
Minutes : center subdial
Seconds : down subdial
Of course, like any Kari's watches, the finishings are great. Let's appreciate this beautiful dial :
Winding the watch is a strange experience.
It's not like a Simplicity or a Richard Lange : you don't feel the notches. But you feel more resistance. It's due to the fact that we have a Power Reserve of 40 hours with a 5hz caliber.
Let's have a look at the stunning caliber. Like for the Observatoire, Kari kept the architecture of the caliber but made again some parts and realized an amazing work in the technical and decorative finishings.
A few close-ups :
Despite its size, the watch is comfortable. But you can see it's quite thick.
My point of view :
What I like :
- the awesome finishings (dial, case, caliber)
- the originality of the watch
- the architecture of the caliber and its high frequency, which is something rare for this type of watch.
What I less like :
- the size of the watch
- the "hand made" on the dial
- due to its frequency, the caliber is more fragile than the Peseux. It's a more delicate watch than the Observatoire.
The technical features (from Kari's website) :
* Caliber 27, created solely for observatory trials and never
commercialized for production. Hand finished anglage, perlage and
frosted finish on the bridges, with movement gold plated with 4N18 rose
gold
* Ruby cap jewels for the escapement wheel and pallet
* 21 jewels
* Free sprung Guillaume balance wheel with gold timing screws beating at 36,000 v.p.h.
* Balance diameter 11.60mm with Breguet/Grossmann balance spiral
* Swiss lever escapement
* Regulator dial with hours at 12 o'clock small seconds at 6 o'clock, and centrally placed minutes indicator
* Power reserve circa 40 hours
* Case made of 18-carat white gold 44mm x 31.50mm x12.50mm
* Balance bridge constructed with tourbillion bridge profile
* Dial is made from gold, engine turned by hand
* Hands made from 18-carat gold
* Sapphire glass on the front and back
* Crocodile leather strap with gold deployant boucle
Now, let's have a look on some guest-stars :
Well, I must confess it was a beautiful gathering and it's always a great pleasure to have the opportunity to handle a Kari's watch.