Kong[Moderator]
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KANTHAROS – BASELWORLD 2013
May 23, 2013,02:31 AM
Could
it be the determination etched on its face? Or its performance-packed
heart? Is it the eye-catching aesthetics? Or its fascinating fully
integrated mechanism? Whatever the answer to such questions, Kantharos
embodies a stunning blend of haute horlogerie expertise and high-tech
precision. This mono-pusher chronograph with striking mechanism and
constant force escapement asserts its own identity and reinvents the
measurement of timing events.
Kantharos: a name carrying echoes
of a bygone era, yet clearly ready to conquer the modern world. Its
Greek-sounding origins endow it with instant mythical status. A stellar
performer in the equestrian world, Kantharos, son of the renowned Coeur
de Lion, is a thoroughbred with an outstanding track record. Kantharos
is now destined to show the same energy in making its entrance onto the
watchmaking scene. A king among chronographs and a force of nature,
Kantharos features a constant-force escapement that ensures supreme
precision. The automatic-winding chronograph's cathedral gong audibly
chimes with each change of function – a concept invented and developed
by Christophe Claret.
Elementary: the starting and stopping of
the chronograph is heard before the time is read off on the wrist.
Christophe Claret started with a simple premise: athletes launch out of
starting blocks when the gun is fired; boxers begin and stop their
fights when a gong is struck; horses burst out of the stalls when the
starter gives the signal. So it is logical to hear exactly when the
chronograph starts and stops timing. Kantharos enriches the world of
short-time measurements with an ingenious striking system triggered by
each change of mode (start, stop, reset).
The concept is entirely
in line with Christophe Claret, which has repeatedly distinguished
itself with innovative striking mechanisms featuring cathedral gongs.
The latter, the acknowledged king of chimes, is visible at 10 o’clock
and equipped with a patented system that avoids the gongs vibrating
against each other. The chronograph delivers peerless and reliable
performance. Its clutch disk system, inspired by car gearboxes, prevents
the hand from jumping when the chronograph starts to enhance precision.
This useful, functional and entertaining chronograph plays on the
sensorial – acoustic and tactile – interaction between the instrument
and its owner.
In addition to this innovative complication,
Kantharos is also equipped with a constant-force escapement.
Majestically enthroned on the dial side at 6 o’clock, this clever
mechanism is a key component that considerably reduces timing
variations. The energy delivered to the escapement remains constant from
beginning to end of the power reserve. Precision is the overriding
goal. The perpetually moving mechanism exercises a hypnotic visual
effect, which may be admired beneath a meticulously chamfered sapphire
bridge revealing the full extent of the master-watchmaker’s know-how.
This
technical perfection is matched by architectural balance: Kantharos
leaves nothing to chance. Its layered dial skillfully plays on depth and
transparency, accentuating the visual field, while catching and holding
light. Designed like an amphitheater in which the actors display their
remarkable skills. The titanium and ruby red indicators are enhanced
with Super-LumiNova, while the chronograph seconds hand is a vivid red.
Despite their strong personality, the numerals and hour-markers are
relatively discreet so as not to clutter the dial. With chronograph
counters on either side, the constant-force device appears to be at dial
level – an impressive structural achievement in itself. The distinctive
nature of the counters, inspired by aircraft instrument panels, is
further enriched by an original disk display system. One sapphire disk
carries the numerals, while a second black and white disk positioned
below features a red indicator. Each is rimmed with a graduated step,
giving the display a pleasing sense of dimensionality. Every single
detail thus contributes to the overall perfection: The color
coordination extending from the hands, the jewelling, the time
indications and through to the overstitching on the alligator leather
strap.
The Kantharos caliber is ingenious in many respects. This
self-winding mechanical movement is equipped with the first ever
components made from M-15X. This new material has never been before used
in the watch industry to make laminated steel and was developed in
cooperation with L. Klein SA. It epitomizes the particular attention
Christophe Claret devotes to the constant pursuit of innovation –
whether in terms of horological complications, machinery or materials.
M-15X is a type of steel made using powder metallurgy-based production
technology that gives it a homogeneous microstructure and a very fine
grain. This material serves to achieve remarkably high-quality
mirror-polished finishes.
Housed inside a 45 mm-diameter case in
titanium and white gold, the movement was designed, developed and
assembled in-house. This extremely complex caliber is not built up layer
by layer, as is usually the case, but is fully integrated – a unified
approach that enhances finesse, performance and coherent technical and
aesthetic appeal. The movement design is a feat in its own right. The
platinum rotor boasts increased inertia and the mainspring guarantees a
48-hour power reserve. Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal case
back and fitted with 75 jewels – an impressive number that
single-handedly symbolizes the complexity of the mechanism – the caliber
conceals nothing of its refined finishing. Among its 558 components,
the swan-neck regulator spring and oscillating winding rotor feature
hand-crafted finishes reflecting the finest haute horlogerie traditions.
These include polished internal angles, an extremely demanding
technique, and a balance-cock adorned with a brilliant-cut ruby. This
wealth of subtle touches offer vivid proof that aesthetic precision
pervades even the smallest of components and fully matches the
outstanding technical performance of the timepiece. Together, they
constitute the inimitable signature touch of the Manufacture Claret.
KANTHAROS TECHNICAL DATA
Movement
Caliber: MBA13, automatic winding mechanical movement with chiming chronograph and constant force escapement
Dimensions: 31.6 x 10.56 mm (without gong) ; 37.6 x 10.56 mm (with gong)
Number of components: 558
Number of jewels: 75
Power reserve: 48 hours (approx.)
Escapement: Swiss lever-type, 3 Hz (21,600 vph), constant force
Functions
- Hours and minutes
- Mono-pusher chronograph
- Chronograph chimes each time the function is changed (start, stop, reset)
- Patented cathedral gong
- Constant-force mechanism visible at 6 o'clock on the dial side and underneath the sapphire bridge
- Platinum automatic winding rotor
Features
- Anthracite rhodium-plated main plate and bridges, rhodium or pink gold gears (depending on model)
- Sapphire bridge with gold chatons
Case
Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 15.83 mm
Water resistance: 30 m (3 ATM)
Titanium version, Rhodium-plated dial:
- Grade 5 titanium (polished/satin-finished)
- Ruby red and black PVD hands with Super-LumiNova tips
- Red chronograph hand
- Rhodium-plated dial base with black PVD chronographs applied indexes
- Grade 5 titanium and black PVD grade 5 titanium crown
- DLC-coated stainless steel clasp
- Black alligator strap with black stitching
Black titanium version, Anthracite dial:
- Black PVD grade 5 titanium
- Blue spinel and black PVD hands
- Blue chronograph hand with Super-LumiNova tips
- Anthracite rhodium-plated dial base with black PVD chronograph applied indexes
- Black PVD grade 5 titanium crown, with blue spinel cabochon
- DLC-coated stainless steel clasp
- Black alligator strap with blue stitching
Pink gold/anthracite titanium version, Anthracite dial:
- 5N red gold and grade 5 anthracite gray PVD titanium
- Ruby red and black PVD hands
- Red chronograph hand
- Anthracite rhodium-plated with 4N pink gold chronograph applied indexes
- 5N red gold and grade 5 anthracite gray PVD titanium crown
- DLC-coated stainless steel and 5N red gold clasp
- Black alligator strap with black stitching
Pink gold/anthracite titanium version, Pink gold dial:
- 5N red gold and grade 5 anthracite gray PVD titanium
- Black ceramic and anthracite gray PVD hands
- Black chronograph hand
- Pink gold dial base with 4N pink gold chronograph applied indexes
- 5N red gold and grade 5 anthracite gray PVD titanium crown
- DLC-coated stainless steel and 5N red gold clasp
- Black alligator strap with black stitching
White gold/ anthracite titanium version, Anthracite dial:
- White gold and grade 5 anthracite gray PVD titanium
- Ruby red and black PVD hands
- Red chronograph hand
- Anthracite rhodium-plated dial base with rhodium chronograph appliques
- White gold and grade 5 anthracite gray PVD titanium crown
- DLC-coated stainless steel and white gold clasp
- Black alligator strap with red stitching
Press Release
Comments:
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KANTHAROS – BASELWORLD 2013
By: Kong : May 23rd, 2013-02:31
Could it be the determination etched on its face? Or its performance-packed heart? Is it the eye-catching aesthetics? Or its fascinating fully integrated mechanism? Whatever the answer to such questions, Kantharos embodies a stunning blend of haute horlog...
I was playing with the Kantharos last night
By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : May 23rd, 2013-06:21
Thanks Kong for the detailed article. I enjoyed reading it and learned alot of the details of this watch from your report. I got to meet Mr Claret and his wife last night in a dinner organized by Sincere in Singapore to introduce the Kantharos. Was very l...
Interesting character ...
By: Kong : May 23rd, 2013-23:36
Christophe Claret... graduated from Geneva Watchmaking School before age 20, and set up his first workshop for restoration work, buying machines & tools from flea markets. So which variation of the Kantharos you preferred? Kong PS: The write-up is fro...
WG anthracite titanium
By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : May 25th, 2013-08:05
was my fav. Love the dark grey dial, white metal and red stitches on the black leather. But unlikely to buy a CC anytime soon! No budget ;) Cheers Robin
Another very interesting CClaret
By: Mark in Paris : May 23rd, 2013-06:41
Mechanically it is a very interesting watch. I think the "gong" is useless here but it must still be nice to hear once a while. Mechanically I really appreciate the work that was undertaken concerning the chrono clutch system, and of course the constant f...
Thanks ...
By: Kong : May 23rd, 2013-23:41
for reading, Mark. The information is from press release of Christophe Claret. I tend to agree with you... the display of the chronograph and the constant-force mechanism is interesting, but not the 'pusher-sound-feedback'. Perhaps, at minimum, the gong s...