KIH[Purist]
12044
Urwerk, Rudis Sylva, Moser at Tokyo Watch Exhibition
Jul 02, 2014,04:59 AM
I was invited to the preview of Tokyo Watch Exhibition (July 25-27) which will be mostly for the indie brands, and was able to handle some of the samples - they are all "new" in or "comeback" to the Japanese market: Urwerk, Rudis Sylva, and Moser.
1. Urwerk
Perhaps there is little to no need to introduce this brand to this forum, but believe or not, Urwerk was very little known in Japan and was barely available, but it recently got a new distributor and is making a "comeback" to the Japanese market.
To refresh everyone's memory, here is the summary of the brand:
As many of you may know, Urwerk made Opus V for HW in 2003. "Ur" means "origin" and "werk" means "work" or "accomplishment" in Germany (correct me if this is wrong!!). Urwerk DNA is inspired by the "Night Clock" in 17th Century in which the "hour" moves like the "Sun" rising (from zero minute of the hour) and setting (to 60 minute of the hour). Unlike the conventional dial which shows all the 12 hours index, this is intended to let people forget about one or two hours before or ahead and focus more on 'Now".
Urwerk has two facilities in Switzerland - one which mainly does design and parts machining including the dial and case (most parts are made in-house) in Zurich, and another which assembles and adjusts the watches in Geneva. The brand has 15 employees, of which 7 are watchmakers and 2 are engineers, and makes 150 pieces per year.
Now the sample I handled:
Urwerk 210 -
Automatic/ manual winding, 39 hours power reserve, winding efficiency indicator, power reserve indicator, flyback (retrograde) minute hand
* Winding Efficiency Indicator (on11h) - Patented. Shows its winding efficiency as of two hours before. If the indicator points green, it was winding and building up the energy, and if it points red, it was not being wound and just consuming the energy back then (need to learn a bit more about this.....).
The Control Board Stop - Automatic winding mode
Reduced - 25% reduction in the winding efficiency (need to learn more about this)
Full - Manual winding mode
Also noteworthy is balance wheel (or alike) is not visible and even the ticking sound couldn't be heard.... so not sure whether it is working (no second indicator)....
They call it "Turbine".
Because of the brand-new stiff strap, the watch is a bit skewed on my wrist, but once the strap gets soft, it should fit much better. But I don't deny that it is big. Still, I think it would be interesting to wear off time. 53.6mm x 43.8mm x 17.8mm
Need a bit of practice to be able to pull the crown smoothly.
Now, here is how the retrograde minute hand and Revolving Satellite Mechanism of the hour mark works.
Urwerk 105
Hand Winding, 42 hours power reserve, Power Reserve Indicator
Control Board:
Power Reserve Indicator on top
Oil (change) Indicator - 5 years meter
Timing Screw and Fine Tuning Indicator (must be very convenient!)
Second indicator and power reserve indicator on the side.
The power reserve indicator shows "Full" now.
The second indicator disc is also visible from the dial side and I tried to capture that - may not be too visible on the video, pardon me!
This one may be more to my liking.... Somehow, the crown is easier to pull. Steel case may be more appealing on my wrist.
53mm x 39.5mm x 16.65mm (slightly smaller than 210 and that may be why).
And, again, how the "wandering hour satellite" and the minute hand (non-retrograde) work.
2. Rudis Sylva
Rudis Sylva was established in 2006 by Jacky Epitaux in Les Bois (near La Chaux-de-Fonds). The brand name came from Jean Ruedin, who developed the forest in the Jura Mountains in 14th century, and "Sylva" which means "forest" in Latin. Les Bois had been well known for its quality parts manufacturing since 18th century. In the 1900s, there were 1450 habitants of whom 600 were watchmakers, and who alone made 20 to 30K watches per year.
Harmonious Oscillator mechanism:
* (from their brochure) The Harmonious Oscillator features a system with two mechanically interlinked balances driven by a single escapement. Two complete toothed balances are interlinked. This combination ensures the same amplitude. The symmetry and energy of the balance springs are constantly opposed, enabling instantaneous average correction in the vertical position, which eliminates the effect of gravity.
Case diameter 44mm
Cage diameter 17.40mm.
How the cage moves: On the back says "Ultima Forsan (might be the last time....)"
Thickness 14.3mm
...but it does not wear as big as the spec says....
Maybe a bit thick, though...
Beautiful....
The sun dial on the back, together with the words "Ultima Forsan" were on the wall of the farm house where the enameler Sophie Cattin (Champleve,Grand Feu), on the hand engraving by Sylvain Bettex
Lugs are not only brushed but also machined inside.
The "Pyramid" pattern Guilloche is done with hand machine by Georges Brodbeck.
Even the back of the buckle shows craftsmanship.
You can see the double barrel being wound: Power reserve 70 hours.
Wonderful watch.... I didn't get tired of handling and looking at it, wearing, trying, etc....
3. H. Moser & Cie.
The "new" Moser came to the Japanese market as well.
Venturer (Note - prototype):
Notice the thinner bezel and dome glass.
Note - prototype - back finish will be much better in the production pieces.
Profile has not changed. The "Moser" shape.
The hands may look a bit cheapy but again, this is still a prototype and the production pieces' hands will be better.
See the "domy" glass.
The "old" Moser - Monard
Side by side - notice that "&" got smaller in the "new" Moser.
Again, the same profile....
Perpetual One - Special "All Gold" Edition: LE of 100 Dial, hands, bridge, are all gold, they say.... The last product of Dr. Lange.
I am looking forward to the actual Tokyo Watch Exhibition! Thank you, East Japan, the organizer of the event!
Best,
Ken
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-07-02 04:36:29 This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-07-02 06:58:42