The position of one horse

Feb 27, 2013,01:52 AM
 

The question is recurrent but (no offense) it is not that meaningful.


Every independent uses more or less existing design or existing components or (horresco referrens) existing calibers.

The point is : how do they work from this and what is their added value ?

My Antiqua (as well as my Classic) was based on the Lemania 8810. Why ?  Because it is a valuable caliber, very appropriate for building on its basis the perpetual calendar I wanted to make.

Therefore, I used the regulating set (balance wheel, anchor,  escape wheel) as well as some wheels. For other wheels I made my own, as well as I designed and made the calendar complication and the winding system, as I felt the original one was not satisfactory enough to me.

For the Classic, I could have put the 8810 as is in the case but I prefered to make a dedicated main plate (in addition to a special winding system).

Furthermore, any component from outside is improved (if necessary) and finished to my quality standards before being integrated in the final product.

That is our added value.

Of course, Patek Philippe says they made 100 % of the components. However they make 50'000 pieces per year while I have made about 500 pieces in 15 years. Do you really think we are in the same category ?

I am sure that Philippe Dufour is proud to have been inspired by watchmakers or calibers of yesteryear. The same for Kari Voutilainen who is happy to have brought unfinished calibers back to life in his Observatoire watches. That is what we call "heritage" and we want to perpetuate this.

Watchmaking is not producing watches that look like kites, vacuum cleaner or suppositories and pretend "I did it myself".

That is just watch business.

Watchmaking is making watches, spending time on the bench with hands, fingers and eyes as ultimate tools,  sweat and passion as lubricant.

There is a asian proverb that says : "When you eat an apple, have a thought for the person who planted the apple tree". It can be translated for horology "When you watch the time, have a thought for the person who made the watch".

When I use an existing component or technical design, I have a thought for the unknown to me person who made it. If I use it that means that I feel he did it right.

Sorry for being so long in my speech.

Cheers










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Do most independants start from base calibers or not ?

 
 By: Bruno.M1 : February 25th, 2013-09:34
Speake Marin Dufour Vianney Halter Calabrese Andersen Lang & Heyne Van Der Klaauw Gauthier Voutilainnen Sarpaneva .... I know for example some do use unitas, peseux and other movements ofcourse the end product is very different. Do I dare to ask ... i... 

Let's keep the horse in the stable...

 
 By: DonCorson : February 25th, 2013-13:11
To my knowledge all but two from your list above have at times or in general used parts from existing movements. And for those two it is my lacking knowledge if that has ever been the case, not negative evidence. I do not think, however, that using an exi... 

Very well said, Don...

 
 By: matto1 : February 25th, 2013-13:33
...

+1

 
 By: JDowning : February 25th, 2013-17:22
This is the best explanation for how best to approach this issue that I can remember seeing. The Observatoire is what it is and is simply stunning. Not like other watches with the same starting materials. I have seen some 100% original creations that were... 

Hi Don, pardon me to intrude but I think the answer....

 
 By: Sandgroper : February 26th, 2013-01:24
misses the point of the question. Of course, it is irrelevant if one uses an existing ebauche or not, I don't think relevance was part of the question. Cheers. Francois

The position of one horse

 
 By: vianney : February 27th, 2013-01:52
The question is recurrent but (no offense) it is not that meaningful. Every independent uses more or less existing design or existing components or (horresco referrens) existing calibers. The point is : how do they work from this and what is their added v... 

An Indies distinctive feature

 
 By: Mark in Paris : February 27th, 2013-06:41
Thank you for participation and sharing your approach Mr Halter. I can say that most of us who have acquired or is willing to buy a watch from an independant watchmaker has this "who is behind the watch" very strongly in mind, and that it's a main purchas... 

thank you

 
 By: Bruno.M1 : February 27th, 2013-07:36
Thank you very much for your answer ! Ofcourse I would never say you, or others play in the same league as patek. I know this is a different world. Untill today I still prefer the bigger brands BUT that is changing. I want to know more about your work ( a... 

Great speech

 
 By: xiaobiaomi : February 27th, 2013-08:47
It is such a pleasure to learn from someone who is behind the watch. May I say the independent watchmaking is a way to express the idea and understanding of watchmaking via the products(which is the watch and its accessories) and reflects the emotion of t... 

"When you watch the time, have a thought for the person who made the watch"...

 
 By: RJW : March 2nd, 2013-16:54
That's brilliant. And its what ownership of an independent watchmaker's watch is about. Regards, Richard.

Awesome reply!

 
 By: sidneyc : March 3rd, 2013-00:26
Coming from Mr Vianney Halter, we see it from the point of view of the maker of such timepieces. Indeed, it is as much about the person behind the watch and the value added, rather than what the base movement is. In our world of industrial specialisation,... 

Yes they do, some more then others

 
 By: Hororgasm : February 27th, 2013-12:06
Some adopt the Opel/Vauxhall/Holden model of using same chassis, engine, transmission, even body panels. Some are simply rebadging excercise. Some are modified to beyond recognition, some immediately recognizable once you pop the hood. And there are those... 

Most? Probably not, but some do, at times...

 
 By: ztirual : March 1st, 2013-09:58
I know the case of Voutilainen best. It is well documented that some of his past watches were based on old, extraoridinary chronometers ebauches such as Peseux' cal 260 and Longines' cal 360. But, but his latest creations, the vingt-8 is a in house manufa... 

I actually bought the HM4 because of the suppository look..give me a double!

 
 By: bernard cheong : March 3rd, 2013-03:09
But not for constipation. Not kidding. I explain and talk suppository use 7 days a week. To get back at my work stress, I bought the HM4 because one reason was really the way watchmaking is not serious from certain perspectives. We have engineering of tra... 

I am not surprised Bernard.

 
 By: ArthurSG : March 3rd, 2013-03:27
and thank god I have no use and can choose to not have any need or want for suppositories. In my old age if I do need help with bowel movement, I will no doubt think of the hm4, max and you :-)