vianney
20
The position of one horse
Feb 27, 2013,01:52 AM
The question is recurrent but (no offense) it is not that meaningful.
Every independent uses more or less existing design or existing components or (horresco referrens) existing calibers.
The point is : how do they work from this and what is their added value ?
My Antiqua (as well as my Classic) was based on the Lemania 8810. Why ? Because it is a valuable caliber, very appropriate for building on its basis the perpetual calendar I wanted to make.
Therefore, I used the regulating set (balance wheel, anchor, escape wheel) as well as some wheels. For other wheels I made my own, as well as I designed and made the calendar complication and the winding system, as I felt the original one was not satisfactory enough to me.
For the Classic, I could have put the 8810 as is in the case but I prefered to make a dedicated main plate (in addition to a special winding system).
Furthermore, any component from outside is improved (if necessary) and finished to my quality standards before being integrated in the final product.
That is our added value.
Of course, Patek Philippe says they made 100 % of the components. However they make 50'000 pieces per year while I have made about 500 pieces in 15 years. Do you really think we are in the same category ?
I am sure that Philippe Dufour is proud to have been inspired by watchmakers or calibers of yesteryear. The same for Kari Voutilainen who is happy to have brought unfinished calibers back to life in his Observatoire watches. That is what we call "heritage" and we want to perpetuate this.
Watchmaking is not producing watches that look like kites, vacuum cleaner or suppositories and pretend "I did it myself".
That is just watch business.
Watchmaking is making watches, spending time on the bench with hands, fingers and eyes as ultimate tools, sweat and passion as lubricant.
There is a asian proverb that says : "When you eat an apple, have a thought for the person who planted the apple tree". It can be translated for horology "When you watch the time, have a thought for the person who made the watch".
When I use an existing component or technical design, I have a thought for the unknown to me person who made it. If I use it that means that I feel he did it right.
Sorry for being so long in my speech.
Cheers