The following is the edited transcript of a brief chat with an eminent collector of timepieces from independent watchmakers. His collection is notable not only for its diversity but also for its high quality, including pieces like Kari Voutilainen, Philippe Dufour, Urwerk and even less common makers like Paul Gerber and Beat Haldimann. Photographs of some of the watches can be found in the follow-ups to this post.
Su JiaXian (SJX): What draws you to watches from independent watchmakers?
Anon : Technical innovation, [attention to] detail, finishing of the movements and artistic design, [though] some nearing being loud. And, to a lesser extent in recent years, their underdog status compared to the major brands.
SJX: Are there any independents you especially like?
Anon : No, none in particular.
SJX: Which of them do you wear most frequently?
Anon : H1 from Haldimann.
SJX: And what are the attractions of the Haldimann H1?
Anon : The ticking sound of the balance wheel; you can hear it ticking on a quiet night without putting the watch to your ear. Watching the tourbillion is like poetry with motion.
SJX: Most of the watches you own from independent watchmakers are classical in design; you don’t have much of the avant-garde pieces that have more or less come to define independent watchmaking in recent years. What do you think of such watches?
Anon : [Such watches] call for attention; you like it or you don’t; nothing in between. Furthermore, other aspects of the watch, like technical innovations, are sometimes over-looked [due to the focus on design].
SJX: Interestingly, you prefer your Roger Smith Series 2 more than the Simplicity you own, can you tell us why?
Anon : I can’t really put a finger to it; I suppose it is the watch as a whole.
SJX: Let’s talk brief about some of the less well known independent watchmakers of whom you are a client. For example what make you decide on the Lang & Heyne chronograph as well as time-only piece?
Anon : At first sight it was the movement, [then] the clean dial with the central [co-axial] minute and seconds hands of the chronograph.
SJX : Is there any watch you regret purchasing?
Anon : Yes, there are about 4 to 5 watches that I regretted purchasing.
SJX : Can you name one?
Anon : Dubey Schaldenband's Aerodyn Date – frankly I don’t know why I bought this watch. Maybe I was taken in by the [tonneau] shape.
SJX : Were your purchases made in person or online? If they were made online, do you have any advice for others who are considering buying a watch from an independent having only seen it on the internet?
Anon : My purchases were made in person [at a retail store]. I have not bought any directly from independent watch makers as yet.
SJX : You mention the independents are less of an underdog nowadays, in fact many are successful and their watches are much more expensive than in the past. What do you think of that? Does it lessen the appeal of independent watchmaking?
Anon : Being the underdog, I independent watchmakers were less well known, especially the new ones, and collectors in general were a lot less receptive. Therefore they had to work harder to convince collectors to buy their work.
[Today] thanks to watch forums on the net, aficionados and collectors who share their experiences and post pictures [the independents are better known]. Nothing is better than an endorsement from a satisfied buyer. In so far as being more expensive, we have to decide for ourselves, it’s willing buyer,willing seller. The major brands are also moving into this market sector.
The appeal of independent watchmaking for me has not diminished. The number of independent watch makers have increased therefore there are more creations to choose from, one just has to know what he is looking for in a watch. In any case, those without genuine good products will I believe fizzle away.
SJX : Thank you for your time.
This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-09-18 01:39:19