It is piece specific, but Dufour wins...to me.

Dec 17, 2007,16:34 PM
 

This is a good question.

I think the appreciation of watches by the connoisseur- consumer (henceforth to be called the class of buyer called the "con-com"), has reached a level to move up and onwards .

When Lange suddenly brought forth the subject of absolute finish, although in an industrial sense, the world of the con-com focused itself on finsh.

It has almost been a decade or more, as we draw to the end of 2007. Timely.

I admire Dufour. He made and still makes the "complete" soul of a watch...finish and the next level, "soul". The Lange lacked soul. This was and is not to be seen as a weakness..in fact, I like Lange, especially the Lange 1, because of its character, its coldness, its declaration of being man made and an artifact of man, hence.."lacking soul". The character of this watch is strong, and individual.

Dufour did the opposite, he took finish, and watch making, and combined them with his personality and his feelings, making it not "man made", but "Dufour made", hence, he infused his soul into it.

This cannot be seen in VC, Patek, AP, IWC, Lange,...or at least to the same intensity.

Kari has it. He has soul. He does infuse it. BUT..there is too much variation from his one model to the next, in the details. He can't have 2 or 3 souls. The bending over to please the masses, and the dilution of his own vision is understandable. It has brought him sales and sucess. BUT, I wish more artists, or independants to remain firm. We should as the con-com, bend over to understand them, and support their work. Even when at first we don't like what we see.

Look at the Goldpfiel Vianney, or the URWERK Opus V, if not for the intense interest in finish, and the interest drawn by Dufour's focus, they may have remained unknown..or the FREAK even. It has taken more than a decade for the con-com to even look at the Goldpfeil Vianney, the majority can't even begin to like it. When I first bought it, I did not understand or likeit, that intensely. I grew to like it intensely after I bought it. I bought it, at the time, to support Vianney's work.

Coming back to the question of Anthony's.

"Finsihing vs finishing" is a good topic, and should be classifed as one parameter. I feel, personally, that a new parameter, a more difficult one. should be created in the con-com mind..it is too amorphous at this moment, but it should incorporate (1) identity (2) character (3) elasticity between aesthetic and engineering/performance.

I feel that like Thomas, the boudaries of finishing, and more finishing, have been pushed far, not too far, as some still suck...but it is appropriate to see the watches as more complete entities, and as con-coms of the market, we should begin to see the products on wider horizons.

At this point, Dufour, to me, with the Simplicity, and the Duality, and his workshop, wins hands down.

His product's forte is point (3) elasticity between aesthetic and performance, weakness is point (2) character. The finish is not a parameter here, as it wins almost always, visible especially on very prominent displayed parts.

Kari is more even between all 3 points, but strong on none, at the moment.

I may be wrong, this is personal opinion.  I suppose we are here to discuss. And most of all, help each other, and the watch makers understand what we want, enjoy, and guide us as well. They have their problems.

 The more conglomerate and industrial players, like Chopard LUC, Patek, UN, FP Journe, AP etc ..have actually moved ahead to incorporate more elasticity into their products. Ironically, the indepedants are having a trying time to avoid the lure of mass appeal, and hence "sales", as they have a powerful character and identity, and therefore lack mass appeal. In diluting their character and identity, they get mass appeal.

The PuristS.com as a site for con-com vision, and direction, has to help give feedback, whether right or wrong, but with good intent, a feedback on what we see.

 

This message has been edited by bernard cheong on 2007-12-17 16:44:44


More posts: DufourLange 1Urwerk

  login to reply

Comments: view entire thread

 

Here's an interesting topic - whose finishing do you think is better - Dufour or Voutilainen?

 
 By: AnthonyTsai : December 16th, 2007-19:00
I like to stir up the hornet's nest Cheers, Anthony This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2007-12-18 08:51:00

finishing at that level is so piece specific

 
 By: SteveH : December 16th, 2007-19:23
It's really impossible to tell without examining multiple examples in person and under magnification. That being said, I like Kari's watch considerably more than the Simplicity.

I'm just curious to see what people's views are

 
 By: AnthonyTsai : December 16th, 2007-21:04
since many here place Dufour on the "Finishing God" pedestal Cheers, Anthony

Mutual admiration

 
 By: Gary G : December 16th, 2007-22:11
Well, Kari views Dufour as an inspiration and mentor, and at Basel, Dufour was apparently wearing one of Kari's watches at the Lange event! I haven't seen a Simplicity, but I have seen the Voutilainen Observatoire and Chronograph -- and if Dufour's finish... 

Isn't that....

 
 By: SuitbertW : December 17th, 2007-04:44
...Romain Gau th ier,....but perhaps he was also wearing J.P. Gaultier Best Suitbert

Oops! My mistake -- sorry

 
 By: Gary G : December 17th, 2007-09:13
I didn't see it myself, but had it on what I thought was excellent authority (that is, someone who was there and who spoke with Dufour that evening). Just goes to show you that one should only report what one has seen! Best, Gary G

... and sorry it was not in Basel

 
 By: small-luxury-world : December 19th, 2007-12:50
it was in Geneva ;-) Just me, counting peas ... oliver

It was a wristwatch, right?

 
 By: Gary G : December 26th, 2007-22:00

Hard to say....

 
 By: Dje : December 16th, 2007-22:21

One very important point needs to be underlined

 
 By: alex : December 17th, 2007-02:17
(I'm only comparing the Simplicity movement with Kari's Observatory) Dufour jhas designed the Simplicity movement in a way where he can give full show of his finishing techniques and crafts whereas the Observatory watch is based on a Peseux 260 and Kari h... 

Great point Alex.

 
 By: Mostel : December 17th, 2007-21:44

Well said!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : December 19th, 2007-12:53

I have tried putting Dufour Simplicity Kari....

 
 By: CL : December 17th, 2007-06:44
Observatoire and Roger Smith Series 2 next to one another and staring it for a while. When you see three of them together, you will note that the Simplicity and the Observatoire really SHINE They are so simple but yet incredible in term of its finishing. ... 

Dufour and Voutilainen's finishing both "glow" - this is what has always

 
 By: ThomasM : December 17th, 2007-09:03
appealed to me about their work, even though I am very hesitant to enter any of the discussions about either's finish quality anymore. (the whole subject has gotten to a level I feel unqualified nor comfortable discussing) That almost ethereal "glow" just... 

I share this point....

 
 By: Dje : December 17th, 2007-10:19

It is piece specific, but Dufour wins...to me.

 
 By: bernard cheong : December 17th, 2007-16:34
This is a good question. I think the appreciation of watches by the connoisseur- consumer (henceforth to be called the class of buyer called the "con-com"), has reached a level to move up and onwards . When Lange suddenly brought forth the subject of abso... 

You have been my inspiration

 
 By: schen : December 18th, 2007-11:28
...and you still are. Thank you Bernard for your insightful post. This is a very interesting thread and it's so well said by everyone. Good food for thought.

Hi bernard, using the word consummer to designate watch aficionados, collectors etc...

 
 By: alex : December 19th, 2007-02:54
kind of bothers me as it makes me think of mass production consummer goods meant to b used and discarded. It takes all the emotion and soul out of collecting and being passionate about timepieces

Yes..hence "connoisseur-consumer"...but, here on this island

 
 By: bernard cheong : December 19th, 2007-06:22
We have yet to develop a mass, a critical mass of connoiseurship..see..I can't even spell the word! Ah..wht the hell. I see Singapore, and also a large mass of the market as still "consumer"...but being "herded towards connoisseur or academic by the puris... 

Roger Smith once told me that he had immense respect for the "big

 
 By: alex : December 19th, 2007-06:42
brands" (he was referring to the high end brands) because while he was trying to figure out how to produce his Series 2 as a series he realised how difficult it was and the considred the fact that the big guys could produce watches with consistent quality... 

Consistency in numbers, consumerism's shadow.

 
 By: bernard cheong : December 19th, 2007-18:34
Inconsistency in small numbers is better, as long as there is one parameter of consistency...quality. I don't like clones of my watch. The strenght of the AHCI can ironically be inconsistency in each piece, but all made with very great quality...just like... 

Roger meant consistency in quality, in being able to rerially produce

 
 By: alex : December 20th, 2007-03:07
large numbers of watches with consistent quality This message has been edited by alex on 2007-12-20 03:07:57

Yes. I understood.

 
 By: bernard cheong : December 20th, 2007-18:48

Can I add lighter fluid to the fire?

 
 By: jasny : December 18th, 2007-00:45
I have only examined a Dufour up close. But, at one point I was investigating the JDN Tourbillon by Daniel Roth, which sadly was beyond my financial reach :-( . However, SOME of the feedback I was given, was that the the JDN Tourbillon is equally or bette... 

I would hope you have actually seen the JDN piece ....

 
 By: CL : December 18th, 2007-07:03
in metal before adding the lighter fluid I happen to have put 2 pieces of JDN (round and torneau) and 2 pieces of Simplicity (34mm and 37mm) infront of me. The JDN does not exude the 'glow' to me but then it is so piece specific. It may just happen that t... 

As I said in the post, I never saw a JDN Tourbillon. But,

 
 By: jasny : December 18th, 2007-08:01
I am impressed that you have seen two. Obviously it is hard to compare a tourbillon to a simple hand wind, but I guess you can in some ways. Oh, and by the way CL, you accused me of being over the top with RS when you certainly seem to be one of Dufours u... 

Hehe....I'm indeed a big fan of Dufour but

 
 By: CL : December 18th, 2007-08:41
I really don't think I'm over the top here. I have enormous respect for Mr Dufour and Mr George Daniel. I think both master inspired alot of interesting and talented young independents nowsaday. Btw, I'm not accusing you of anything regarding your support... 

One of the problems with these discussions is it is like arguing

 
 By: jasny : December 18th, 2007-11:17
which entre is best at Gramercy Park Tavern. They are all good. These arguments seem pointless as they are all number one in their own way.

That was funny Jay :)

 
 By: Mostel : December 18th, 2007-08:21

I don't know how to judge or evaluate...

 
 By: nickd : December 19th, 2007-02:21
What are the "rules" for deciding, judging or evaluating? I can tell poor anglage from good anglage, but I have no idea how to distinguish "amazingly good" from "incredibly good". I know this post is just to be provocative (I'e done enough fo this myself ... 

You are right....

 
 By: CL : December 19th, 2007-04:56

I feel strongly...both ways nt

 
 By: mphilippe : December 19th, 2007-18:24