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Opus 3: Vianney Halter and Max Busser - The Ghosts in the Machine.

Some had given up hope, some had wondered where their deposit had gone, and some continued to dream. Where was Opus3 and would it ever work? The concept was brilliant, daring, and so very original. It had put HWRT and Opus on the horological map; it defined everything that Max Busser was hoping to achieve with HWRT. Take independent watchmakers and give them a remit to invent a new watch, unique, a jewel that was to bring prestige to those who would wear it. These would be concept watches that push the frontier of haute horologie; that create ‘concorde’ moments for the watchmaking industry. That a watch could be produced ahead of its time; that would usher in some ‘new white heat of technology’ for others to follow.





(yes, that’s the Opus 3 on my wrist!)

Launched in 2003 to wide acclaim (have a look at an early article by AlexG: www.tp178.com m
); but then quiet. The prototype did not work as it should. The movement was not sufficiently thought through to realize the simultaneous jump function required for the watch to tell time.

So why does Opus 3 work as a digital watch (with a mechanical movement) and not Opus 8, Opus 9? I have long held that watches such as Urwerk are an unnecessary complication. Why, when do I think that Opus 3 is a legendary watch and a wonder of horology. Why does Opus 3 work? While Opus 3 is a digital watch, there is whimsy in the design, and in the movement functions. Rather than being content with simply showing the minutes, hours, and date, Vianney also included the last few seconds on countdown. It provides a few seconds of interest every minute; a movement in the dials of the watch where you can see the uniqueness of the movement in motion. Think of any other digital watch out there, and none of them can compete with this. The design, the portholes in the watch face took inspiration from the Vega car he owns, but it could easily have come from Captain Nemo’s command deck. This is not a reworking of some past idea with satellites or a linear display, some post modern take on past digital watches - this is original in the very meaning of the word.

So, there I was, at the Salon QP in London last week. It was the usual affair with the watch stands, the usual watches. But Harry Winston stole the show. On show was the Opus 8, the Opus 9, and the Histoire de Tourbillon No 1. I will write more about these watches in the future, but as I was looking at Opus 8, David C of Harry Winston walked over. On his wrist was the Opus 3 prototype – fully wound and working! I could not believe my eyes as David offered me the opportunity to wear it and photograph it. The photos that follow are not that good, probably due to my excitement, but also because of the lighting in the room being far from ideal.

It is a wonder to behold. The proportions of the case are near perfect (not large and oversized), the ends of the lugs are hinged and curve with the wrist. The second countdown is still there, the minutes, hours and the date. I photographed the watch at 9.34 – 9.37 on the evening of the 5th November. You can figure out for yourselves where the readout displays the requisite numbers.





And here is the moment: the seconds count down before the minute indicator changes from ‘4’ to ‘5’: Note the upper left porthole and the bottom right porthole where the second countdown and the minute indicator are located respectively. The porthole for the second indicator has changed over the first prototype, the numerals are less pronounced as well, but otherwise, the portholes and the readout is the same as the initial version.















The movement has been completely reworked by Renaud and Papi. The movement is still powered by the dual springs that Vianney originally thought would be necessary, but the ‘jump’ function mechanism has been completely redesigned.





Harry Winston have been faithful to Vianney Halter’s design and concept through the whole development of Opus 3. Vianney and Max are still very present in the Opus 3 watch. I must applaud Harry Winston’s efforts and ethos in pursuing this definitive dream watch. For the lucky few still on the list to receive one, who had the fortitude and foresight to see out the long years of silence and wondering, your time is almost at an end.

My heart felt congratulations to one and all

Andrew H

PS. To all who emailed me asking for photos of the watch ahead of this post, my apologies. I had agreed with Harry Winston that I would release no photo until after the Geneve Grand Prix and I made a promise to them to do just that. I hope you will understand that I keep my promises when made. Thanks.

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