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AndrewD
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Review: Paul Gerber PuristS Tenth Anniversary Model 42

Paul Gerber PuristS Tenth Anniversary Model 42 Wristwatch

By now all of the Paul Gerber P10’s have been delivered. We have seen the ‘un-boxing’ of several, which is always an exciting moment – made even more so by the inclusion of Swiss Lindt chocolates! So I thought I would add a few words and observations about the watch.

The P10 is based on Paul’s Model 42 that comes as either a Pilots watch or the funkier “Synchron” with green luminescent numerals and hands. The bold and sporty 42mm diameter case is crafted in titanium, and there is a matching signed titanium buckle and an oversized screw-in crown (the water resistance is 10ATM / 100m). The case is made in two pieces with a flat sapphire exhibition back held in place with 7 titanium screws. The front sapphire is gently domed. Up until the Model 42, all Paul Gerber watches were produced in precious metals: gold or platinum. With the Model 42, Paul wanted to offer a more affordable watch, but also wanted to use a material other than steel. The lighter, high grade titanium seemed an appropriate material for a larger sports watch.

Model 42 Synchron and Aviator watches (Image credit: Paul Gerber)

Paul has designed a unique engraved dial for the P10 watch with a recurring “PuristS” logo orientated in two directions, 180 degrees apposed. The dial and date ring is galvanized to produce a dark silvery-grey colour to match the titanium case. Black superluminova is applied to the hour and minute hands, indices and date wheel. The font is of Paul’s own design.

This dial is just amazing. I didn’t particularly want a P10 piece that was ‘branded’ as a PuristS watch, but the words themselves are quite subtle and most people (even watch lovers) don’t immediately see it unless you point it out. Instead the central engraving catches and reflects the light in many interesting ways. From a distance it looks like a modified wave guilloche pattern. And when you look a little closer you see the ‘owl eyes’ of the “P” and then finally (with a bit of squinting) the recurring “PuristS”. To me it’s a timeless design; modern but with Art Deco touches. I find it endlessly fascinating, and another watch that should come with a warning about operating heavy machinery while wearing it. Certainly driving home with it on the wrist is rather distracting!

The legibility of the watch is superb with large numerals, bold hands and oversized date wheel. As a nice watchmakers touch, the tips of the minute and seconds hands are curved downwards towards the dial. The hour and minute hands have black superluminova, but the seconds hand does not.

The watch houses an ETA 2824-2 movement (25 jewels, Etachron regulator, bi-directional automatic winding with the winding and reversing system on top of the movement). Paul chose the ETA 2824-2 because it met all his requirements for adapting his automatic winding system, along with having the date function. In addition he wanted to offer a more affordable watch than would be possible if he used an in-house movement. However, Paul has used the highest level of movement available (ETA movements come in three grades - standard, elaborated and top) and he does not find any reason to do anything to the base movement.

But there is still plenty of horological fun to be had. Paul has extended his twin winding rotor concept and we now have three synchronized rotors with gold weights, each on custom-made ball bearings. I asked Paul at IGOTT2 about the efficiency of the triple-rotor system and he said that they have the equivalent inertia of three individual micro-rotors. But the real advantage is in reduced wear-and-tear. When a single rotor is used, the bearing is always loaded on one side. This asymmetry is less with two rotors, but even better with three, with the load evenly distributed around the central winding gear, translating into greater longevity of the pivots and bearings. The ETA 2824-2 normally has a PR of 38 hours and I have certainly found the winding system to be very efficient, even during periods working at my desk.

The other benefit of this winding system is that it looks cool and, of course, is unique to Paul Gerber timepieces. The ETA 2824-2 is only 36mm (x6.1mm) in size and is usually lost in large watches, but the rotors swing right to the edge of the case and also allow a ‘spacer’ on which are engraved the details of the watch: “Paul Gerber, Zurich”, “Cal. 42” and “One of Ten”. For the P10, Paul has finished the movement to a higher standard than the production Model 42, with blued screws and chamfering and perlage applied to the synchron base plate.

Application of perlage using hand-spotting machine (Image credit: Paul Gerber)

And just for that final stamp of individuality, the P10 strap is made by a Swiss saddle maker from salmon skin. According to Paul the saddle maker was used because it was difficult to find more formal strap makers willing to produce only 10 custom straps. And he chose salmon because it was “something so different and a little special”. The strap is hand stitched and lined with pig skin and is beautifully soft and velvety to the touch. The platinum-grey colour (with hints of purple) again complements the case and luminova, and the texture sets off the dial engraving. It may be the most polarizing aspect of the watch, but I think it’s an inspired choice.

Most of you will know from the IGOTT2 reports [Click Here] that Paul was unhappy with the first batch of dials (after the engraving is done in-house, the dials are sent out for galvanizing and then to a third company for application of the superluminova). The completed dials were too dark and Paul had to engrave new ones and go through the process again. This delayed delivery by 6 weeks but as ‘compensation’ Paul has included the rejected dial and date ring with the delivered watches. He also signed the rear of the dials and it is a testament to his attention to detail. Having the dials side-by-side one can see the effect Paul was trying to achieve, and it was definitely worth the effort and additional time involved to get this aspect of the watch perfect.

In conclusion, I am over the moon with my first Paul Gerber watch. I ordered the watch the moment I saw the engraved dial. I was a little concerned about the garishness of the engraving, but it is far from that. I was worried about the 42mm size, but the light titanium case and short lugs allow it to sit very comfortably on my wrist. The Cal. 42 movement with its triple-rotor winding system is unique, attractive and mesmerizing to see. The icing on the cake for me was meeting Paul, Ruth and Michel Schmutz (their US importer and long time friend) at IGOTT2. Paul is an industry legend, having worked on projects for many of the large manufactures. It is a pleasure to own one of his timepieces and I suspect it will not be the last.

Andrew

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Additional images

The ten completed P10 watches awaiting the journey to their new owners (Image credit: Ruth Gerber) ...

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