Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
A Carinthian Journey - a visit with Maria Kristina and Richard Habring (Part 3a)
Apr 06, 2012,07:07 AM
Dear All:
following the introduction to country and the atelier in my previous posts in this series (
part 1 and
part 2 ) I now like to come to the core of any watch manufacturer, the watches themselves:
We picked an excellent day to stay inside and examine the watches, the weather was rather dull and uninviting.
Richard was up early and prepared the plans, parts and machinery.
To understand why Maria and Richard embarked onto the Habring2 adventure one has to understand their very own criteria towards watchmaking, namely:
- suitability for everyday use
- longevity
- controlled quality
- customer orientation
- choice and value-for-money
- positive eco-balance etc.
When trying to mirror these criteria with the concepts their respective employers were referencing to it was clear to the Habrings that only an own watchmaking atelier, producing watches under their own name and after their own design, would bear promise to transform their ideas into reality. In 2004, the first watch, called 'Time Only', saw the light of the watch world:
It was a simple three hand watch, made in Austria, with an ETA-UNITAS based movement inside. The case was 42mm crafted in stainless steel, as were all Habring2 watches at this time. The design was classic as this was considered a prerequisite for (aesthetical) longevity.
In the those early Habring2 days, movements were mostly outsourced, some of them vintage calibres like the famous Chezard Jumping Seconds, UNITAS 6894 or ETA-Valjoux chronograph movements. Richard and Maria have always been open in regard to their suppliers, which include ETA SA and Soprod (for movement (or parts thereof)), Fricker (cases) or Cador for dials.
Several of the base movement were modified. The UNITAS movement for example featured a modified balance cock to facilitate the incorporation of a tourbillon at a later stage if the owner desires (more about this in Part 3b). Or take the Regatta watch, a regatta timer based upon the ETA 7750 movement.
It features a 15min countdown timer and was originally developed as a consultancy project:
I choose this watch as the entry point as it highlights several of the defining details for Habring2 watches, e.g. a wide choice of colours, parallel brushing in the center and circular brushing in the outer part as well as finely applied numerals...
... and the versatile classic 42mm case:
Driven by the desire to strengthen their watchmaking identity, facilitate implementation of their creativity and gain as much self-sufficiency as possible, the two subsequently ventured into developing an in-house movement as a basis upon which a vast number of complications can be built. Literally, as the base movement can be ordered as houndwound or automatic movement (it can even later be changed from automatic to handwound or vice-versa!) with or without additional complications.
Complications can be added at any time right from the start or later after several years. This was one of the main criteria the Habrings wanted to achieve: a watch that could grow with the owner and accompany him/her throughout a lifetime. Speak about sustainability!
Furthermore, such a modular construction system would be essential for such a small workshop in order to offer a broad range of watches while keeping resource requirements and costs in check.
Its a win-win concept for both manufacturer and consumer, and at the same time is true to an ancient relationship between client and watchmaker:
"These values were quite commonplace when the production of wearable, mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would go to the watchmaker and have a watch made to the stipulated requirements. Then, the craftsman first devised the desired product and assembled it to some extent over years of detail work, vigorously supported by his helpers, into a functioning ensemble." [Press Kit]
To present all different models at once, and explaining (some of) the technical concepts behind them, certainly would be an overkill. Therefore, I split this post in two installments:
Post 3a:
- Regatta watch (see above!)
- Handwound and automatic watch
- Jumping Seconds
- Ladies watch
Post 3b:
- COS Chronograph
- Doppel 2.0
- Foudroyante
- Tourbillons
Post 3b will be published sometime after the Easter days.
This message has been edited by Magnus Bosse on 2012-04-28 04:46:18