Urwerk, Rudis Sylva, Moser at Tokyo Watch Exhibition

Jul 02, 2014,04:59 AM
 

I was invited to the preview of Tokyo Watch Exhibition (July 25-27) which will be mostly for the indie brands, and was able to handle some of the samples - they are all "new" in or "comeback" to the Japanese market: Urwerk, Rudis Sylva, and Moser.



1. Urwerk
Perhaps there is little to no need to introduce this brand to this forum, but believe or not, Urwerk was very little known in Japan and was barely available, but it recently got a new distributor and is making a "comeback" to the Japanese market.

To refresh everyone's memory, here is the summary of the brand:
As many of you may know, Urwerk made Opus V for HW in 2003.  "Ur" means "origin" and "werk" means "work" or "accomplishment" in Germany (correct me if this is wrong!!).  Urwerk DNA is inspired by the "Night Clock" in 17th Century in which the "hour" moves like the "Sun" rising (from zero minute of the hour) and setting (to 60 minute of the hour).  Unlike the conventional dial which shows all the 12 hours index, this is intended to let people forget about one or two hours before or ahead and focus more on 'Now".

Urwerk has two facilities in Switzerland - one which mainly does design and parts machining including the dial and case (most parts are made in-house) in Zurich, and another which assembles and adjusts the watches in Geneva.  The brand has 15 employees, of which 7 are watchmakers and 2 are engineers, and makes 150 pieces per year.


Now the sample I handled:

Urwerk 210 - 
Automatic/ manual winding, 39 hours power reserve, winding efficiency indicator, power reserve indicator, flyback (retrograde) minute hand

* Winding Efficiency Indicator (on11h) - Patented.  Shows its winding efficiency as of two hours before.  If the indicator points green, it was winding and building up the energy, and if it points red, it was not being wound and just consuming the energy back then (need to learn a bit more about this.....).




The Control Board
Stop - Automatic winding mode
Reduced - 25% reduction in the winding efficiency (need to learn more about this)
Full - Manual winding mode

Also noteworthy is balance wheel (or alike) is not visible and even the ticking sound couldn't be heard....  so not sure whether it is working (no second indicator)....




They call it "Turbine".




Because of the brand-new stiff strap, the watch is a bit skewed on my wrist, but once the strap gets soft, it should fit much better.  But I don't deny that it is big.  Still, I think it would be interesting to wear off time.
53.6mm x 43.8mm x 17.8mm
















Need a bit of practice to be able to pull the crown smoothly.





Now, here is how the retrograde minute hand and Revolving Satellite Mechanism of the hour mark works.




Urwerk 105
Hand Winding, 42 hours power reserve, Power Reserve Indicator




Control Board:
Power Reserve Indicator on top
Oil (change) Indicator - 5 years meter
Timing Screw and Fine Tuning Indicator (must be very convenient!)



Second indicator and power reserve indicator on the side.




The power reserve indicator shows "Full" now.





The second indicator disc is also visible from the dial side and I tried to capture that - may not be too visible on the video, pardon me!




This one may be more to my liking....  Somehow, the crown is easier to pull.  Steel case may be more appealing on my wrist.
53mm x 39.5mm x 16.65mm (slightly smaller than 210 and that may be why).





And, again, how the "wandering hour satellite" and the minute hand (non-retrograde) work.






2. Rudis Sylva
Rudis Sylva was established in 2006 by Jacky Epitaux in Les Bois (near La Chaux-de-Fonds).  The brand name came from Jean Ruedin, who developed the forest in the Jura Mountains in 14th century, and "Sylva" which means "forest" in Latin.  Les Bois had been well known for its quality parts manufacturing since 18th century.  In the 1900s, there were 1450 habitants of whom 600 were watchmakers, and who alone made 20 to 30K watches per year.

Harmonious Oscillator mechanism:
* (from their brochure) The Harmonious Oscillator features a system with two mechanically interlinked balances driven by a single escapement.  Two complete toothed balances are interlinked.  This combination ensures the same amplitude.  The symmetry and energy of the balance springs are constantly opposed, enabling instantaneous average correction in the vertical position, which eliminates the effect of gravity.




Case diameter 44mm




Cage diameter 17.40mm.




How the cage moves:



On the back says "Ultima Forsan (might be the last time....)"




Thickness 14.3mm








...but it does not wear as big as the spec says....




Maybe a bit thick, though...












Beautiful....




The sun dial on the back, together with the words "Ultima Forsan" were on the wall of the farm house where the enameler Sophie Cattin (Champleve,Grand Feu), on the hand engraving by Sylvain Bettex




Lugs are not only brushed but also machined inside.




The "Pyramid" pattern Guilloche is done with hand machine by Georges Brodbeck. 







Even the back of the buckle shows craftsmanship.


You can see the double barrel being wound:
Power reserve 70 hours.



Wonderful watch....  I didn't get tired of handling and looking at it, wearing, trying, etc....


3. H. Moser & Cie.
The "new" Moser came to the Japanese market as well.

Venturer (Note - prototype):
Notice the thinner bezel and dome glass.




Note - prototype - back finish will be much better in the production pieces.








Profile has not changed.  The "Moser" shape.




The hands may look a bit cheapy but again, this is still a prototype and the production pieces' hands will be better.








See the "domy" glass.
















The "old" Moser - Monard




Side by side - notice that "&" got smaller in the "new" Moser.  




Again, the same profile....




Perpetual One - Special "All Gold" Edition: LE of 100
Dial, hands, bridge, are all gold, they say....  The last product of Dr. Lange.

























I am looking forward to the actual Tokyo Watch Exhibition!
Thank you, East Japan, the organizer of the event!

Best,
Ken
This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-07-02 04:36:29 This message has been edited by KIH on 2014-07-02 06:58:42


More posts: MoserMoser MonardUrwerk

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Comments: view entire thread

 

I cant decide if I like the new Moser or not...

 
 By: Dave G : July 2nd, 2014-05:03
I hadn't noticed the hands that you pointed out, and not sure if the domed crystal is too much. I have a Monard and a Nomad which I really enjoy. I need to see the new piece in person to decide.

Correction...

 
 By: KIH : July 2nd, 2014-09:46
.. the hands on the "new" Moser will be much better in the production pieces, I heard.... Ken

Thanks for this in depth report Ken...

 
 By: DonCorson : July 2nd, 2014-09:29
It is good to see these watches out and about. Your definition of Urwerk is correct, but it is at the same time a pun as Uhrwerk, pronounced the same as Urwerk, means watch or clock movement. Don

Ah! You learn something everyday!

 
 By: KIH : July 2nd, 2014-09:46
Thanks, Don! Hope all is well! Ken

I am eager to see the Venturer first-hand.

 
 By: aardvarkbark : July 2nd, 2014-11:48
I don't recall seeing side views from photos posted during Basel. The bezel, while thin when viewed from above, appears quite substantial in height from the side. I do wish they would offer a 'simple' model with sub-seconds at 6 and big date at 3, but wit... 

Stay tuned for the production pieces!

 
 By: KIH : July 3rd, 2014-09:24
Venture is an interesting model with domed glass and dial color gradation. Smaller and lighter. As for the "date" version, I am sure they will come out soon..... hopefully :-) Thanks! Ken

That was an interesting event Ken

 
 By: Mark in Paris : July 3rd, 2014-06:38
I could see the Rudis Sylva and the110 in Paris not so long ago and these are very unusual pieces as they don't sell everywhere. I'm glad they adapted the 105M from previous models (crossed with the 110's case). The 210 Torpedo remains my favorite (though... 

210 is certainly an interesting model...

 
 By: KIH : July 3rd, 2014-09:26
.. but 105 is a bit smaller and more affordable, so I am easily torn apart :-) As for Rudis Sylva, it is big for sure, but still an interesting and beautiful piece so it could be fun to wear - my take :-) Thanks, Mark! Ken

Another great report Ken

 
 By: takashi78 : July 3rd, 2014-22:13
I especially like the Rudis Sylva, the dial can reflect light nicely. I can imagine looking at it all day. Appreciate that the buckle has received the same amount of attention and care crafting it.

Your detailed observation is much appreciated!

 
 By: KIH : July 7th, 2014-17:53
.. seeing is believing, especially this model! Ken Happy B'day!

Very true...

 
 By: KIH : July 7th, 2014-17:54
.. I change my thought about this brand quite a bit by encountering like this and handling them directly for a prolonged period of time... :-) Ken