Quick review: Parmigiani Kalpa Steel

Jul 29, 2014,11:21 AM
 

This is a quick overview about the watch I've been searching for more than a year! All of us are in a constant quest for the grail(s), or onlywatch, but I would rather define this timepiece as a fits-for-all-occasions signature watch. (One might not wear a grail for everyday use, Greubel-Forsey comes to my mind...) To cut a long story short, I finally came to the conclusion that PARMIGIANI with its rather unique baroque style and vertically integrated manufacturing is an horological marvel. PARMIGIANI, or more precisely the five manufacturers that the brand consists of, produce everything in-house for their timepieces, except the straps. Those are produced by Hermés...
Mr. Franck Muller once said, that true luxury watchbands never offered their entry level models bellow the 7000 CHF list price, and that's true for PARMIGIANI. Fortunately World of Luxury US made that entry more accessible, and a week ago I got this timepiece with all its belongings. For this range PARM is supplying a leather travel pouch, with wallets, etc, they look great, I' never missed the usual wooden box, anyway. At first glance the case and dial have lots of interesting details, all of them carefully proportioned. For those, never heard of Fibonacci, 1.618 and Michel Parmigiani's own love for maths, this might be an interesting reading. Some elements of the design look truly great in the flash, the bigger date with its unique typography, the luggs and the smaller, understated brand name on the dial are just a few of them. Finish is top notch, I would say even better as one would expect in this price range! 
While the case and dial have an excellent symmetry in their style, the otherwise nicely finished and decorated double barrel manufacturer movement, the PF331 with sceletonized rotor is bit more simple, than the aforementioned parts. The Tonda's PF701 movement's style with microrotor could have been a better fit, in my opinion, and interestingly the PF701 in the Tonda 1950 case serves a more straightforward, less baroque design, but I could be wrong at this point, Mr. PARMIGIANI probably knows better how to make a watch...
Of course one week is a very short time to evaluate a watch, more to follow later, but in this short period I've been absolutely satisfied with its understated elegance and refined design. The latter also serves excellent comfort, while the brand's unique capabilities in movement production - PARM is also making movements for Patek, Chopard and earlier probably for Breguet- means, one shouldn't worry for accuracy, mine is running 5 secs fast a day. More pictures to come in the coming weeks, sorry for the official pics, but they really tell, how this watch looks like. 

Thank you for your precious time!


















More posts: Franck Muller

  login to reply

Comments: view entire thread

 

Neither PP nor Breguet ever used a Parmigiani/Vaucher movement

 
 By: Goldenlutin : July 29th, 2014-15:17
Parmigiani/Vaucher never ever ever produced a movement for PP, Chopard nor Breguet. You must be confusing hair spring and movement. Atokalpa (which also belongs to the group) produces apparently hair spring sfor PP and Chopard too. But this is not a confi... 
login to reply

OK, thanks for your reply

 
 By: de Owar : July 29th, 2014-22:18
I should've written Richard Mille, Harry Winston and Hermés instead. I'll look after those articles, mainly written after visits at Vaucher in Fleurier, where this info came from. Of course little has been officialy confirmd. But would be also important t... 
login to reply

+1. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : July 29th, 2014-22:20
login to reply

This is an interview with Michel Parmigiani

 
 By: de Owar : July 30th, 2014-06:21
You're right, as for Chopard, production is not mentioned, just movement design. Vaucher is making movements for 15 brands, PP, Breguet are not among those, but for sure they provide for Hermés, Corum, RIchard Mille and Harry Winston. I've already seen m... 
login to reply

I think you can now remove HW as it was bought by SG...

 
 By: Goldenlutin : July 30th, 2014-08:53
In addition to your post it is also important to note that Parmigiani buys (and does therefore not produce itself) most of its complicated movements from Renaud Papi (AP) and Christophe Claret. Parmigiani often forget to mention this :) They even describe... 
login to reply

Swatch and HW

 
 By: de Owar : July 30th, 2014-11:46
You just mentioned that HW was bought by the Swatch Group last year, sad news. But this is also giving more credentials for those, who remain independent. Isn't this sub forum all about them. What I really find fascinating about PARM is how they changed t... 
login to reply

Nice review

 
 By: BCHH : July 30th, 2014-13:54
Nice review - the movement used in this watch is the industrialised version of the older Pf full-rotor automatic with the solid gold rotor (caliber designation escapes me now) This one comes with the steel rotor right? Vaucher does indeed produce for PP -... 
login to reply

THANK YOU BCHH

 
 By: de Owar : July 31st, 2014-02:04
Now this is very clear now, at least as clear as this could be, with so many brands not revealing where components came from. You're right this comes with the skeletonized steel rotor, the solid golden rotor serves golden case models. While that golden ro... 
login to reply

de Owar, I know what you mean...

 
 By: BCHH : July 31st, 2014-15:01
I know what you mean about brands not revealing where components came from.. I know all 17 brands that utilise Vaucher for production but obviously cannot reveal most of them apart from the disclosed ones like Hermes, RM, Corum (golden bridge) etc. Person... 
login to reply

Thank you again for the great insider info!

 
 By: de Owar : August 1st, 2014-02:42
The term in-house, while being important, is totally overrated and misinterpreted. Great ébauches, with someone's own developments, personal additions can absolutely outperform an in-house movement and can add much more value, than using an unstable, unre... 
login to reply

I totally agree with you

 
 By: BCHH : August 6th, 2014-13:58
I definitely prefer a real watchmaker who modifies and finishes an ebauche, rather than some fake in-house chicanery (a recent fiasco over a young brand's release comes to mind). Of the former category, watchmakers like Dirk Dornblueth and Pascal Coyon co... 
login to reply

Very nice watch !

 
 By: gael_bx : July 31st, 2014-07:00
thanks
login to reply

Thank you!!

 
 By: de Owar : July 31st, 2014-10:31
The case is very intriquing in the flash, as its curves are reflecting lights. I would discribe this case as a tonneau, but a very unique one.
login to reply

on the wrist

 
 By: de Owar : July 31st, 2014-10:40
...  
login to reply

That's the proper environment...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : August 8th, 2014-06:10
works particularly well with your shirt! Thanks for sharing, Magnus
login to reply

That's very kind of you! Thank you Magnus! [nt]

 
 By: de Owar : August 9th, 2014-10:54
login to reply