Part VI: Habring2 Watches
By: AnthonyTsai (registered) Friday, October 12th, 2007 - Photo Nav: View All 1 photo(s)Habring2 - Richard and Maria Habring
First watch on the list is the Habring Complete Calendar with moonphase. The base movement is the Valgranges A07 from ETA with a dead seconds complication which Richard developed. This new Valgranges caliber from ETA is based on the base movement of the automatic Valjoux 7750 without the chronograph parts. I didn't have enough time to ask Richard or Maria about the movement before they had to leave early to go to the airport; so anyways, I asked Tim Jackson about the movement and his view on the Valgranges movement is that he believes ETA is doing what Panerai did to the automatic Valjoux 7750 movement. Panerai removed the chronograph parts from the 7750 and began using these movements as their base self-winding movements; and since it appeared that there was a market demand for larger diameter self-winding calibers to fill the larger sized watch cases as a result of the on going large watch trend (of which I believe is here to stay
), ETA developed the Valgranges base movement. Tim also says that since Richard is close to ETA, this is why he already has access to these Valgranges movements. Very interesting story, and thanks for your views Tim!
Now back to the watch. At every month less than 31 days, the date will need to be corrected which is easily done by pulling the crown and turning forward, and the calendar does not have any corrector pushers. All indications of the complete calendar are set through the crown, and the steel case is 42mm. The actual watch in this picture is the first "Automatic 2007" with full calendar that Richard has made (already spoken for though) but is still available for those who wish to order one.
The Habring Tourbillon is a hand wound one minute flying tourbillon based on the calibre Unitas 6498-1 which has been heavily modified. Housed in the "Time Only" 42mm case, the movement has a power reserve of around 44-48 hours. I've never had a chance to see any of these Habring watches in person, and I was amazed at the depth of this watch while looking at the dial. It's not an often sight that you see such a large gap between the dial and the plate, and the shadow from the lighting clearly demonstrates the 3D dimensionality of this watch.
The antimagnetic tourbillon cage is made from beryllium bronze (as pictured here) or titanium.
There's also a power reserve indicator on the back. I'm not a movement junkie at all so I can't explain what actually is going on with the power reserve indicator; but basically in layman terms, Richard told me that when the 3 red markings line up, it's time to wind the watch. If you look closely at the maltese cross to the right center of the watch, you'll see one of the red markings.
The Habring2 Automatic with power reserve utilizes a Felsa 760 movement from approximately 1960. Power reserve display is at 9 o'clock, and you can get an optional date window at 4 o'clock. Hands and hour markers are polished gold-plated while the dial is silver coated, and the watch also comes with a Buben & Zorweg watch winder.
Movement is hand engraved by Florian Guellert.
The next watch is the same as the above Habring2 Automatic with power reserve but in this version the hands and markers are rhodiated.
This watch here is the Time Only manual wind which utilizes the calibre based Unitas 6498-1. Seconds is at 6 o'clock, and the owner may add complications to the watch in the future such as pointer date, power reserve indicator, moon phase, tourbillon, and even quarter repeater.
Most of the engraving on the Unitas is primarily on the balance cock.
The Habring2 ChronoSport with date utilizes the manual wind Valjoux 7734 which is a movement produced approximately in 1970. You can order this watch without the date and the movement will be the Valjoux 7733. This particular Habring2 model is the most sporty out of the entire collection and is the first chronograph in the Habring2 line. The dial is elegant and classic for a chronograph and is available in 3 colors - galvanic black, galvanic blue (as pictured), and copper-tone. All three dials come with rhodium plated hands and markers fitted with superluminova.
Here's another angle of the galvanized blue dial with silver subdials which resembles very closely to the blue anthracite dials found on some Panerai's. Of all the Habring2 models, this one is my favorite and one I would actually consider purchasing! This classic, sporty, yet vintage look of the ChronoSport is a rare combination today IMO. I love it!
The movement is hand engraved as well and definitely not an eye sore.
Habring2 watches primarily utilize 42mm stainless steel cases but precious metal cases can be requested on demand.
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