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Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour: "Naissance D'Une Montre - Le Garde Temps" @ Kamine, Kobe

You may have heard about this project.  You may have seen the picture of it.  You may even have seen the result of Christie's Auction - "Ecole" version which is still the "School-graduation" level and the final pieces will get better/ different finish, fetched USD1.5mm, 3 times its list price, and for the first time in Christie's history (officially), it did not charge a penny to the seller, this project, as one of the official partners of this project.

Naissance d'une montre - Le Garde Temps - SIHH 2016

The event is intended for the Japanese connoisseurs to understand the situation in the watchmaking community (read: crisis situation), and how Time Aeon Foundation has been trying to tackle the issue, with help by Mr. Dufour and other “Partners” one of which Kamine was chosen for..

The reason for Kamine to be chosen is simple.  It has been in business for 110 years and that means, to the project, it has been fostering, supporting, know/love the watches made in the traditional way for more than a century, and they decided it was meant to be.

The summary of the talk show, or rather “open interview”, is as following:

Moderator – Mr. Tetsuo Shinoda, writer, journalist

Panelists – Mr. Stephen Forsey, Greubel Forsey

                 Mr. Toru Kamine, CEO, Kamine (the 4^th generation)

Translator – Yours truly.

Briefing before the panel discussion.

Both Mr. Shinoda and Mr. Kamine have been feeling in the past decade that most brands are becoming similar and similar to each other in that they use the same high-end machines to make parts, the topic and focus are becoming quite similar whenever they talk to them, and so on.

Mr. Forsey replied with the remark that they have been feeling the same way with the topic of the watchmaking school curriculum and there are less and less opportunities for the young watchmakers to “shine”.  That’s why they decided to start and they set up Time Aeon Foundation to promote the movement of “go back to basics” to revive and spread the traditional watchmaking skills.  He mentioned Mr. Dufour’s remark that there are many complication watches dating back 50 years, 100 years, and more, which even he hesitates to touch – he fears who will take care of these museum pieces in the future?

Here is Mr. Dufour’s video message to the Kamine customers (sorry again, spoken only in French and subtitle in Japanese).  He talked about the situation in the Swiss watch community and the reason why this project was started.

Video message from Philippe Dufour

Then, the moderator, Mr. Shinoda, turned to Mr. Forsey asking why they picked Michel Boulanger as the “vessel” to carry/ transfer the vast knowledge and experiences.  Mr. Forsey said, “The first and foremost reason was that he was already a teacher at a watchmaking school.  Although he was teaching and living in Paris, after we – all three of us – interviewed him, it was a unanimous decision.  He had knowledge, understood theories, but lacked practice.  He decided to take sabbaticals for more than several years and dedicate his time for this project.  He commuted to our atelier, Philippe’s atelier once a month.  But his first job was to set up his own atelier with the necessary authentic tools that have been used for more than several decades.  Some were rented from us, some from Philippe, and some he had to seek out by himself, e.g. case making tool from case suppliers.  Then he was taught by today’s masters in each field to make thing by hands.  Even the hair spring was made by hand, including the material alloy.”

Mr. Kamine told the audience when asked what/ how/ why he thought about this project and accepted the role.

“It really is an honor to be chosen as a partner of this project.  Kamine has a long history of watch retail and that means we have been catering the needs of those who love excellent craftsmanship and know the true value of traditional watchmaking.  And we know that Japanese collectors have been long supporting such traditional watchmaking and it was natural for Kamine to be a part of this important project.  I was honestly surprised but soon realized this was meant to be for us.  I was really glad that my concern was actually shared with someone in the industry.”

Mr. Forsey talked about the auction piece and where this project is going now. 

“The piece sold at Christie’s shows that people still love the watches made in this way.  That particular piece is called ‘Version Ecole”, meaning it was Michel’s ‘Graduation Piece’, so the actual 11 pieces will have slightly more sophisticated finish as he learned a lot since then.” 

“Michel has returned to school as a part-time teacher and the knowledge transfer has already begun.  We will spread the knowledge to anybody who wants for free.  We also make the videos for those traditional skills at work for free.  This is not business.  This is for the future of watch community around the world.  There are now many great talents outside Switzerland, including Japan and this is very important for all those existing and future watchmakers.” 

.. and final thought to the initiative they took upon them. 

“The first project is now done.  All 11 pieces will be spoken for soon – so you will never see this one again (although the one on display today is a working prototype).  As for the next project, we don’t know.  We will not do the same thing.  We made the watch using the traditional skills and if the same skills are used, no reason to repeat to make and sell the watch again.  We are receiving requests to teach by watchmakers in various regions and Michel will travel to Mexico and Dubai soon to do some workshop for the young watchmakers there for free.

Now I do not want you to get me wrong.  There is nothing wrong with using the high-end machines to make robust, accurate, reliable, and durable watches.   That is one path of evolution of watchmaking and good for everyday use watches many people can actually use regularly.  Our project is aimed at the transfer of traditional skills, which have been lost slowly but steadily. 

Japan has a great system called ‘a Living National Treasure’ where the government funds or subsidizes for the craftsmanship transfer, but Switzerland doesn’t.  I also know that there is a great young watchmaker in Japan who is stubborn about making watches by his own hands only – Mr. Masahiro Kikuno.  It may be interesting to work with him to spread the skill and passion with us in Japan or anywhere else.  As such, the next step will be up to you.  Please come to us with your ideas - what this Time Aeon Foundation can do to help or enhance the traditional watchmaking transfer from one generation to the next. ”

The audience reacted to this “open interview” in very passionate way as many of them approached one of the panelist/ moderator to ask further questions and praise the purpose and got more interested in what they CAN do.

After the show.

Signing for me )

These are the shots of the prototype (background is the port of Kobe).

Now, other watches…..

This one is very very nice.  Size, simplicity, yet very Greubel Forsey.  I truly wish I could afford one!

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