Independents

Mark in Paris
[Purist]
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A new flame has come: De Bethune DB25

(A tittle borrowed from Simply Red as I thought it would be appropriate !)

Hello everyone,

You are all horology lovers and you know that when we start to get seriously interested in watches our tastes evolve continuously and so does our next quest. As far as I'm concerned, I've been more and more appreciating independent brands through the years.

Their aesthetical uniqueness is what we recognize most but their technical behavior, the philosophy behind the creation of timepieces or the founder who tries to bring something new to a slowly evolving environment represent a high quality alternative to the traditional manufactures.

I don't make a judgment of both sides, one confronted to the other or trying to make a pecking order but these are 2 different visions of watch making, in many fields, yet quite close in others.

As time goes by, we can equally appreciate an independent (may he be of quality) or a glorious traditional brand, at any budget level.

These independents are often less understandable and less easier to feel maybe because of a lack of communication (understandable while comparing volumes) or because they appeared not long ago, a brand unknown from usual customers, but also because their volumes don't allow them to lower their prices at a level any clients are waiting for from a brand that they will inevitably compare to traditional ones.

This said, a better knowledge and a trained curiosity, or the need to look for something different, because of boredom maybe, leads someone to look at those new incomers that mix up usual standards in many technical or aesthetical aspects of watch making.

For me, for subjective and also real objective reasons, I've always been attracted to what is original or tries to explore new paths but, meanwhile, hate being taken for an idiot. Thus, I try to improve my knowledge and to sort information out, even if there will still remain a subjective part at the end.

This is for instance why I always had a closer look over what De Bethune offered. I found through their collection, the aesthetics (very subjective but this totally fits my feelings and tastes), the innovative spirit, the will to make things differently than it used to be (which in many field doesn't always mean "best" but best is on the path of the one who makes the effort to make the research, instead of always doing again and again what was already done before) and sometime development and intellectual reflection about what should the future be bringing.

I had the opportunity and the chance to be able to come across this watch I was highly looking for some years now (it was shown around 4 years ago): the De Bethune DB25 power reserve, white gold, silver dial.

Here follows a small reminder and a review of this watch. I hope you'll enjoy it

- The case

As said previously, the case is in white gold (an alloy of gold, palladium and other materials, such as zinc I think) and is 44 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm thick. Some would say a little big but, in this kind of field, I think that the overall proportions are what matters most, that it suits the spirit of the watch and also, in my opinion, that it would not come out the same if it had been smaller.

The style is inspired from old pocket watches, field in which David Zanetta is a specialist. The case is smooth, round and very pure. I never get tired of watching it and admiring its finish.

The crystal is slightly round and thus is harmonized with the softness of the design:

Finally, the crown is maybe the part from the whole case + crown + lugs that is the more detailed and nearly "crowdy". It has been drilled and carved with grooves and the front side's center is round: a contrast between curves and squares. This, I think, brings a touch of dynamism in the design of the watch without looking to modern. A little piece of art.

- The lugs

The earmark of the case is the contemporary design of the hollowed lugs and which resulting structure is very finely shaped, visually light and well balancing the size of the case.

Furthermore, these lugs are placed very low on the case and thus the watch sits very easily on the wrist, even a thin one, and doesn't provide a visual ungainliness when looking at the DB25. Meanwhile, it is not too "avant-gardiste" looking, flaw that would have weigh heavily on the visual impression conveyed by the DB25.

In my opinion, it is a perfect combination between modern and classic, without being a fashion object that we grow tired of and that quickly fades through time.

At the top end of the lugs, the strap appears. This gap between the strap and the case, combined with the thin structured lugs strengthens the soft feeling.

- The strap and its tang buckle

The black strap is made of alligator with a black mat selvedge and is of a very fine quality.

The tang buckle is also in a polished white gold and, unlike what we can more and more see in recent models, is of a normal or even small size, especially regarding the strap's and case width. I find it to be a great choice and going against the grain of today's trend.

Furthermore, its shape is well thought as it mixes curves and straight lines. The back side is "sand" finished with a discreet "De Bethune" engraving. The tang has not been neglected as it is also perfectly finished and polished:

- The dial

It is a 2 parts dial.

The central part is hand decorated with a "sun guilloché" pattern, divided in 12 areas (one for each hour). You may also notice a power reserve window at 12', thin and purely curved, which doesn't break the dial's overall look. The red color is perfect as it brings a touch of modernity and dynamism. When the barrels are fully loaded, this PR changes significantly as it shows a beautiful monochrome watch.

The peripheral index ring shows the "grain d'orge" guilloché decoration. The indexes are multi-layer painted, giving the figures a nice relief and a beautifully finished execution.

Roman numerals are fitting perfectly to the watch spirit and, as far as I'm concerned, I'm delighted as I like them better than Arabic figures. What a happy coincidence

The hands are handmade and made of blued steel, a technique that De Bethune masters greatly today. These hands are placed really close to the dial and their end comes liking the ring, which is beautiful to see. Another detail of De Bethune's mastery.

- The caliber

It is the DB2024 in-house caliber, automatic and power reserve (30 mm diameter).

Some figures: 287 parts, 49 jewels, 28.000 vph, 6 days power reserve.

I must say I love the "double-sided" aspect of this watch: on one hand a classic look, elegant, looking backward for today and on the other, the contrast of the engineering look, even technologic, modern and accurate, looking toward tomorrow. Dr Jekyll and ... Dr Jekyll too but more modern ^^ (who said Mr Hyde!)

The finish quality is really top notch (not the same level as a Lange or Patek of course). Screws are polished, some parts are steel chamfered and polished by hand perfectly (titanium bridge of the parechute system) and other parts are elaborately edged, may they be in titanium or in steel.

I particularly enjoy looking at the engraved "sand" finished ring that surrounds the movement and the resulting sharp contrast. It's perfectly well carried out:

The power reserve is obtained from a double spring barrel (placed one next to the other) which springs auto regulate one each other. The special feature of the barrels is that 3 ruby pallets are positioned between the mainsprings and the barrels (on each side). It enhances the accuracy of the watch as this limits the friction: traditional spring barrels are subjected to a metal against metal type of friction, needing more grease too.

This is typically the kind of concern for details I appreciate very much while one creates a watch.

The blued titanium balance (0.013 gr) is equipped with 4 platinum weights (4x 0.008 gr). The goal is to obtain the lightest structure possible (less inertia when prone to shocks and thus better time accuracy) while keeping enough inertia at the peripheral end in order to guarantee a continuous steadiness in time keeping.

It is usually a difficult balance to reach but that is improved in this case by pushing away the global weight to the peripheral, and reducing it where it is not necessary and not optimized (in the center area).

You will notice the presence of 2 gold studs (2x 0.002 gr) in the titanium arms to help compensate temperature variations:

Finally, this balance wheel display is equipped with the specific De Bethune flat terminal curve spring (squared part on the pictures). Its function is to enhance the accuracy (isochronie) of the system and to facilitate its manipulation.

This display is attached to the triple parechute system which goal is to absorb part of the shocks the watch receives. The system is composed of 2 ruby pallets, set in column shaped holders and supporting a titanium bridge. This bridge holds the escapement system with a central 2 springs absorbing display.

Concerning the escapement wheel, in order to increase its longevity, the cogs are beveled, alternatively on the upper and on the lower side so that the anchor ruby pallet-stones don't always strike the same spots.

- The rotor

It is an assembly of 2 main parts, one in blued titanium and the other in platinum.

Following the same philosophy than the balance wheel, it is necessary to obtain a good inertia at the peripheral but weight is not correctly optimized if positioned toward the center.

De Bethune chose to use a titanium girder (light), fixed to the center of the watch (and hence to the winding mechanism) and on which a bow shaped platinum weight has been screwed (high density, high weight and resistant).

Finally you may have noticed on the pictures a central steel part with 4 little tabs incrusted with 12 small rubies. This part doesn't move and is screwed to the caliber (not to the rotor, as we may think at first sight). It is what protects the bearings from shocks and helps maintaining the rotor in place when shaken. The rubies help the rotor's titanium bridge to slide against the steel part.

I particularly like the gross general aspect of the platinum weight, well finished in the mean time, which flies sharply between the case and the other parts fixed to the bottom plate, a bit like a magnetic suspension shuttle.

I noticed that the automatic display winds anticlockwise only, not in both ways.

To conclude, you may have noticed my total fairness as I love this watch, but as I know many of you like De Bethune too I wished to share this with you. Let's end with the traditional wrist shots

That's all folks! I hope you enjoyed reading this

Have a good day.

Mark 

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