foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
Opus 12: the true wandering hour watch!
This is perhaps the greatest achievement from Harry Winston with the Opus collection: years after years, before each Basel Fair, the Opus of the year is one of the most anticipated, most observed, most analyzed watches. This spotlight is quite logical since many Opus have become in the past watchmaking icons symbolizing the creativity and the talent of the independent watchmakers. The name of the happy person who was elected to work and collaborate with Harry Winston is one of the key questions that everyone has in his mind before the fair and surprisingly in the watchmaking microcosm, the secret is relatively well guarded. For the watchmaker, this is obviously a great proof of confidence coming from Harry Winston because the brand can entrust the destiny of its flagship watch only to a person with a credible and ambitious project. But it is also a huge pressure that falls on his shoulders as an Opus cannot be considered as a disappointing or so-so watch: it should arouse emotions, questions about the technical solutions that are implemented, in other words, it must mark its time and bring its own brick to the watchmaking innovation wall.
The choice of the watchmaker who would create Opus 12 in collaboration with Harry Winston fell on Emmanuel Bouchet, accompanied by designer Augustin Nussbaum. I find this choice very relevant and interesting. Relevant because Opus 12 is a great achievement offering a dynamic and original time display. Interesting because it allows, for once, to put on the front of the stage the role played by a Watchmaking Development and Consulting company, generally little known by the general public. Emmanuel Bouchet created Centagora in 2008 with Christophe Lüthi, Nicolas Dürrenberger and Thierry Jacques. Opus 12, which required more than 7,500 hours of development is the result of a team effort of 5 persons in Centagora. This realization allows to fully understand the role of such company: it supports the ambition and creativity of manufactures by providing new ideas, a technical expertise, a competency in the transition from the virtual to concrete, in the prototyping and a testing capacity. It is therefore a key element in the creation of the most ambitious watches.
At the end of the day, there is a very simple way to judge the quality of the conception of a watch: it is to merely count the number of present functional prototypes at the booth of the Basel fair. And at this stage, I was quickly reassured: several prototypes of Opus 12 were perfectly functional with a homogeneous behaviour. We all know that it is "easy" to build a single prototype that works. Building several working prototypes is already another story. And when time is coming to produce several dozens watches from the prototype, the difficulty then jumps into another dimension. Opus 12 gives the feeling that this last step (120 Opus 12 will be produced) is about to be ready to start what demonstrates the rigour of the development and creation process from the Centagora team and the effectiveness of the architecture of the movement.
I discovered Opus 12 through the initial press release and I was first disappointed. In fact, I found it needlessly complex having not entered the subtlety of its display. Let's be honest: a text is difficult to describe the hands ballet of this piece. Opus 12 belongs to the category of these watches that it is imperative to manipulate to understand the substance. I was able to do it in Basel and my point of view has changed radically. Opus 12 is remarkable because reinventing the old concept of the "wandering hour". Never before this expression was so appropriate: the hours hand starts literally to walk around to make a journey of the 13/12 dial circonference to position itself at the required location. Opus 12 focuses mainly on this hours display and its transition. In this point, it is a bit the same approach as Opus Eleven. But if the latter offered an explosion of time spreading in a few seconds the constituent elements of the figures before unite them again, Opus 12 offers a much more peaceful theme through a serene wandering of the hours around the dial. This is obviously a visual effect, the hours hand is not moving that way. In fact, don't look for the traditional Central hands, you will not find any. On Opus 12, the indexes (peripheral hands) are used to tell the time.They are both landmarks and measuring instruments. They point to the centre of the watch to remind that complementary indications are there.
I discovered Opus 12 through the initial press release and I was first disappointed. In fact, I found it needlessly complex having not entered the subtlety of its display. Let's be honest: a text is difficult to describe the hands ballet of this piece. Opus 12 belongs to the category of these watches that it is imperative to manipulate to understand the substance. I was able to do it in Basel and my point of view has changed radically. Opus 12 is remarkable because reinventing the old concept of the "wandering hour". Never before this expression was so appropriate: the hours hand starts literally to walk around to make a journey of the 13/12 dial circonference to position itself at the required location. Opus 12 focuses mainly on this hours display and its transition. In this point, it is a bit the same approach as Opus Eleven. But if the latter offered an explosion of time spreading in a few seconds the constituent elements of the figures before unite them again, Opus 12 offers a much more peaceful theme through a serene wandering of the hours around the dial. This is obviously a visual effect, the hours hand is not moving that way. In fact, don't look for the traditional Central hands, you will not find any. On Opus 12, the indexes (peripheral hands) are used to tell the time.They are both landmarks and measuring instruments. They point to the centre of the watch to remind that complementary indications are there.
The time is displayed in two steps which are not far from remember the mental exercice our brain does during the reading of a classic watch. When we look at a dial and the position of the hands, the index, we can see immediately in what segment of 5 minutes we find the hands, and then we read the precise minute. Indeed when somebody asks us what time is it, do we not have tend to round to 5 minutes to answer? The Opus 12 goes after this idea by separating from one side the hours and 5 minutes segments display and from the other the minutes within each segment. It consists of 12 stations or peripheral pairs of index/hands (short for hours, long for the 5 minute segments, each of these 24 hands with a neutral face and a blue face) allowing instantaneous reading of time with a 5 minutes precision.
Two main animations take place through these 12 stations. Every 5 minutes, the long blue hand of the station which corresponds to the just elapsed segment of 5 minutes rotates around itself instantaneously to make visible its neutral face. At the same time, the long hand of the following station also rotates to have its blue face appear. These two pivotements are imperceptible because immediate. This animation occurs therefore 12 times per hour. But it is at the end of each hour that the particular construction of Opus 12 makes perfect sense. In addition to animation related to change of 5 minute segment, the long wandering of the hours hand starts. In fact, all the hours hands make a revolution around the 5 minutes hands, one after the other and this time slowly (blue face / neutral face on the station corresponding to the elapsed hour, neutral face / blue face / neutral face on the 12 stations that follow and finally neutral face / blue face to the new station corresponding to the new hour). This journey is a kind of "trompe-l'oeil" that with alternating colors (neutral / blue) and to the successive revolutions gives the impression that a light diode moves. The result is astonishing, unique and especially surprising because impossible to guess as long as we do not handle the watch.
Two main animations take place through these 12 stations. Every 5 minutes, the long blue hand of the station which corresponds to the just elapsed segment of 5 minutes rotates around itself instantaneously to make visible its neutral face. At the same time, the long hand of the following station also rotates to have its blue face appear. These two pivotements are imperceptible because immediate. This animation occurs therefore 12 times per hour. But it is at the end of each hour that the particular construction of Opus 12 makes perfect sense. In addition to animation related to change of 5 minute segment, the long wandering of the hours hand starts. In fact, all the hours hands make a revolution around the 5 minutes hands, one after the other and this time slowly (blue face / neutral face on the station corresponding to the elapsed hour, neutral face / blue face / neutral face on the 12 stations that follow and finally neutral face / blue face to the new station corresponding to the new hour). This journey is a kind of "trompe-l'oeil" that with alternating colors (neutral / blue) and to the successive revolutions gives the impression that a light diode moves. The result is astonishing, unique and especially surprising because impossible to guess as long as we do not handle the watch.
The two animations of Opus 12 hands:
These animations are made possible thanks to toothed sections positioned vertically at the ends of the hands and which are driven by two peripheral crown wheels. External toothed segments make rotate on themselves the 5 minutes hands while internal toothed segments make the revolutions of the hours hands around the 5 minutes hands.
But Opus 12 is not only this fascinating ballet! The centre of the watch is also worth a closer look. First of all, the complementary minutes hand is located there: it allows the reading of the time to the nearest minute. It is a retrograde hand, returning back to its original location when the 5 minutes segment ends and that a new one begins. Just below the graduation of 5 minutes, in the background, you will find the power reserve display which is done by a neutral color hand to avoid confusion with the minutes and the second hands. Finally, the second hand is found in the first plan, above the minutes hand, which is another speficity of Opus 12.
But Opus 12 is not only this fascinating ballet! The centre of the watch is also worth a closer look. First of all, the complementary minutes hand is located there: it allows the reading of the time to the nearest minute. It is a retrograde hand, returning back to its original location when the 5 minutes segment ends and that a new one begins. Just below the graduation of 5 minutes, in the background, you will find the power reserve display which is done by a neutral color hand to avoid confusion with the minutes and the second hands. Finally, the second hand is found in the first plan, above the minutes hand, which is another speficity of Opus 12.
All of these animations would not have had this impressive impact if the design was not at the same level than the mechanical ambition. Opus 12 draws inspiration from New York skyscrapers, metal constructions, propeller blades. It is a kind of concentrate of Chrysler Building by the way the light plays with the elements! There isn't actually any dial as the mechanics plas the role of landmarks and indicators at the same time. Opus 12 is built on several layers and the mix between effects of transparency and relief composes a complex atmosphere a bit demonstrative but still readable and consistent. The brand name was cleverly affixed to the periphery, the 12 HARRYWINSTON (a happy coincidence!) letters becoming additional indexes. The reference of the entrance Arch of the New York boutique is discreet but visible by the crown. The 46 mm diameter of the WG case are obviously impressive. But this size was required to provide the adequate performance scene for such ballet.
Taking into account the originality of the time display, the role played by all these micromechanics elements, I have difficulty to speak about the finishings in the same way as with a classic watch. Opus 12 brings together parts that only the best subcontractors and providers can manufacture. The hand finishings of some elements like the hands proves that the traditional approach to watchmaking excellence is always present. But we are at the crossing between two worlds, one where the usual watchmaking crafts join those of the precision of micromechanics. All the elements that contribute to the time display decorate the watch at the same time they animate it.
Taking into account the originality of the time display, the role played by all these micromechanics elements, I have difficulty to speak about the finishings in the same way as with a classic watch. Opus 12 brings together parts that only the best subcontractors and providers can manufacture. The hand finishings of some elements like the hands proves that the traditional approach to watchmaking excellence is always present. But we are at the crossing between two worlds, one where the usual watchmaking crafts join those of the precision of micromechanics. All the elements that contribute to the time display decorate the watch at the same time they animate it.
I talked a lot about the animations and their visual impact: it is time to look at the movement which allows such result. One of the most interesting aspects of Opus 12 is the gap between the innovative character of the display and the very classic presentation of the movement bridges side. This movement is inspired by the chronometric low frequency ones with large balance wheels, the power available allowing a great regularity of behaviour. The Centagora team placed itself in the same perspective. The manual winding movement has a frequency of 2,5 hz and a 45-hour power reserve. Visually, it makes think of 3/4 plate movements even if it consists of 3 bridges. The extremely broad bridge of the regulating organ highlights the large diameter of the balance wheel. The decorative grooves accompany circular Geneva stripes and draw "fakes" bridges which mitigate the massive appearance of the movement. Personally, I would have preferred that more disclosed parts but this movement presentation is above all oriented towards efficiency. And obviously, the show takes place front side.
The main challenge of Opus 12 is the management of the power. It shall be issued properly by avoiding consumption peaks every 5 minutes and every hour to not disrupt the proper functioning of the piece and its accuracy. Two independent barrels are used, each with a specific role. The first provides the energy needed for the functioning of the movement while the second feeds the mechanism of the hands animation. To avoid "jolts", the barrel of the animation is accompanied by a differential whose objective is to distribute the power between the two peripheral crown wheels which drive the toothed segments. The movement has a second differential that allows the display of the power reserve. This second differential is necessary because the two barrels are simultaneously wound bwhen you turn the crown and unwind at the same speed. Indeed the movement stops when the energy required to the display is no longer available. The complexity of the movement is highlighted by the number of components: 607 components including more than 200 different ones.
Opus 12 is at first glance a perplexing watch when you put it on the wrist: width, thickness and its weight give an excessive appearance. Fortunately, it is well positioned on the wrist and does not move. With such weight, it would have been very uncomfortable. The time display seems inert, the second hand is discrete and has more a role of working indicator. And then we discover the details of the watch, its different layers, its intriguing side and it becomes more and more attractive. I would even add that its ability to attract the light visually lighten the overall design.
5 Minutes animation can be felt when the watch is on wrist: this is due to the retrograde minute hand of the complementary display and the instant rotation of the 5 minutes hand. But the main problem of Opus 12 is that when the end of the hour approaches, we stop any activity to be sure not to miss the animation! Yes, this Opus can create frustration. Animation is so perfectly done that if we realize we have just missed it, we feel disappointment! A criticism that I made to Opus Eleven was the speed of the animation of hours change (only a few seconds). Fortunately on Opus 12, animation is longer (about 15 seconds) and the wait is better rewarded!
Opus 12 is a watch that requires time to enter its world. Initially, the presence of 27 hands may seem superfluous to simply indicate the hours, minutes, seconds... and when these hands come alive, we understand all the interest of the complexity of the display mechanism. The talent of the Centagora and Harry Winston teams was to manage to fade this complexity behind the charm of the ballet of the hands. This masterpiece of watchmaking and micromechanics is before all a great vector of emotions that already puts its mark in the very rich history of the Opus collection.
A big thank to the team Harry Winston, Emmanuel Bouchet and Nicolas Dürrenberger for their warm welcome during the Basel fair.
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2012-06-24 07:33:52
A big thank to the team Harry Winston, Emmanuel Bouchet and Nicolas Dürrenberger for their warm welcome during the Basel fair.
Fr.Xavier
Opus 12: the true wandering hour watch!
This is perhaps the greatest achievement from Harry Winston with the Opus collection: years after years, before each Basel Fair, the Opus of the year is one of the most anticipated, most observed, most analyzed watches. This spotlight is quite logical sin...
Nice report FX
and one of my favourites from Basel this year. I agree that I would prefer to see a little more on the back of the case but its the front that dances. I am looking forward to seeing the finish on the delivered pieces. Cheers Andrew
Thanks Andrew.
I'm very confident about the delivery of this Opus which was not the case for all of them. ;) Fx
Any word...
Any word FX? I also heard that this one would be fairly smooth but you never know.... I know it will be before the 11... that baby I am going to have to wait a while for!!
The video...
The video was really helpful to understand the Opus 12, thanks for the report! Looking forward to seeing this in person. -MW
Thanks Ming.
Again, for this kind of watch a video is better than thousands words! ;) Fx
Superb report
The watch is an unbelieveable watch in the flesh. I tried it on in the HW Boutique on Bond St, if I had the spare £186K I would have bought it there and then. Cheers.
Thanks a lot for your kind words!
Glad to know that you had the opportunity to handle it in London! Fx
Has the jinx for HW been broken? Rise of de Narp?
Thanks FrX for the report that finally made it clear what the fuss was about. We got a little excited with Opus X because Mojon brought back the Opus to Harry Winston Opus series after a few 'howlers' in the period between Buser and de Narp. Opus 11 was "...
Thanks a lot Melvin!
About your comment, we will wait for an Opus winning streak to see if a new area is starting. But Opus 12 is one of my fav Opus for sure. Fx
Ssuper achievement, I agree...
... wish it were a bit smaller and a bit more affordable ? :-) Wonderful masterpiece, that's for sure! Thanks for the wonderful report. Ken
