Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
7136
A Western view and a second opinion on this watch!
Being exposed for the first time to a - to me - totally new watchmaking philosophy is a rare but fascinating incidence. When I saw Masahiro Kikuno's offerings first time during Basel 2011 I was awestruck: I did not know what I saw, I did not discover yet the underlying mechanism - it was just for its looks and its finishing that I could not pry my eyes from the timepieces (following two images kindly provided by Normunds Spakovskis):
There was a new AHCI candidate, proudly showing of a mesmerising line of timepieces which had unusual (to someone like me, deeply immersed with the Western interpretation of watchmaking), exuding a level of real handmade excellence I have rarely noticed, and topped with the icing of a truly unique mechanisms, e.g. the Temporal Hour (Wadokei) wristwatch aims to 'translate' the ancient Japanese system of seasonal time indication into the Western time dimensions. To this effect it had an index adjusting mechanism corresponding to the everyday-changing length of the day/night period:
The watches did one thing that was even more fascinating and unexpected given their bold designs: they had a degree of inherent harmony and consistency that is rare today.
Part of the Mr Kikuno's secret is his refusal of using modern-day construction and production tools, and instead replacing them with vintage machine, lathes etc., and the pure skills of his own hands. This is restricting in several ways, but I guess it is exactly the limitations who are forcing him to get more into the each and every detail.
As Steve Jobs has said: for every 'yes' there are a thousand 'no's'.
Residing in a country with only little high-end watchmaking actively going on and thus being not impregnated with the mainstream customs of the trade, the young watchmaker developed a truly personal style in finishing as well. His last year's novelty of a precision tourbillon. It pays reference to another piece of engineering that - although not developed in Japan - had its most devote supporters there: I am speaking of the Wankel engine, which's shape is aptly found in the cage of the tourbillon. Note how well Kikuno achieved a machine-type of finishing on the dial: Very few elements, but a strong impression!
This year we got a another important insight into the mindset of the young master: the Orizuru watch featuring a hour strike combined with the automated crane which dominantly resides at the 12 o'clock position:
The case for me its a strong departure from the bold, arcane and reduced designs he previously created. Its a simple rectangular box made from anodised aluminium, with a Mokume-Gane dial which Ken has already described:
In stark contrast to the boxy case are both crown and actuator for the animation. They stick out like the bells of a eastern clock:
Everything here again is hand-made, and I think it shows better than with his previous constructions. I love the roughness and particularly the screws and pinions which pop out of the dial like needles:
The animated bird resembles Japanese Origami work and to me is particularly charming. I am currently on a business trip travelling in Brazil, and I look forward to waking up every morning to listen to the - to me - strange birds. This watch would give me that pleasure every day!
The hands are immediately recognisable in their boldness, roughness and flat appearance. In fact I could obtain a Kikuno watch just for the hands!
The escapement serves as counterpoint to the time display, and has been grafted from an UNITAS movement.
The movement construction itself is deeply inspired by ancient Japanese clocks.
The movement construction itself is deeply inspired by ancient Japanese clocks.
Appreciate the way how the striking mechanism is implemented (particularly the connectors with their adjustment possibilities) and you understand the difference to Swiss or German watchmaking. Everything looks fragile but is actually designed to serve the purpose, with flexibility being an intrinsic feature of the construction:
Finally, on the wrist the watch reveals an unusual presence. Its actually quite comfortable to wear.
Even crown and animation pusher are well rounded and thus never actually unpleasantly press into your skin. A small detail that demonstrates how intensively Mr Kikuno thought about this watch.
So where does this lead us? I cannot hide the fact that the Orizuru is not for me: I really like its conception and execution, but I cannot warm to its design. Its too static, too rectangular, too military for me. Nevertheless, its a testimony to its creator's creativity and his immense abilities. It offered us another glimpse into his mindset, and we learned a lot more about Masahiro Kikuno's personality. That alone is very educating and enriching!
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
Masahiro Kikuno's Basel model and his new offering
AHCI member, Masahiro Kikuno's Basel model and his new offering. I had a wonderful evening with a young (just turned 30) AHCI member (no longer a "candidate") looking at and discussing what he presented at the last Basel as well as his new offering. His p...
A Western view and a second opinion on this watch!
Being exposed for the first time to a - to me - totally new watchmaking philosophy is a rare but fascinating incidence. When I saw Masahiro Kikuno's offerings first time during Basel 2011 I was awestruck: I did not know what I saw, I did not discover yet ...
actually everything about them!
but that would too easy. More than being dream watches to acquire some day, they put me in a dream-like state, sending me back into a time when Japan survived for hundreds of years practically isolated from the rest of the world - by its own choice, there...
Amery, I am deeply impressed by your response...
I had an unpolished feeling that Masahiro Kikuno's watches teach us a lot about auchtochtone Japanese watchmaking. I just thought that the repeating and animating mechanism was decidedly 'non-swiss' in design and execution. Your splendid reply confirmed m...
Thanks, Amery...
... Kikuno-san will be surely happy to read your very impressive thoughts. I will make sure he reads your response. Best, Ken
Things that I find attractive about these watches...
I like the prominent use of Mokume Gane. I also like the emphasis on hand craftsmanship as opposed to the use of modern machinery. With regards to the second (unnamed) piece, what I especially appreciate is the pursuit of a higher level of accuracy via wa...
Amazing! Another work of art.
Mr. Kikuno has such a unique vision. I can't wait to see what he creates next. Regards, Jon
I agree on the sound
When Kikuno san demo it, i almost didnt hear anything. Maybe the surrounding was noisy as well. Interesting also to note that his bronze watch is not oxidizing as much as my own.
Maybe because....
... it was still kinda new creation :-) He said that he expected it to change the color more and more as the time goes by. Really intriguing watch. Ken
