Here's the official press release of the De Bethune DB25T Zodiac

Jan 19, 2015,09:08 AM
 

De Bethune DB25T Zodiac

DB25TWS3V3

 



 

As the proud standard-bearer of a genuinely exclusive approach to Haute Horlogerie, the DB25T makes innovation the very heart of its construction reflecting a proud horological tradition.

 

Innovation has always been the touchstone of the masterpieces that have punctuated the history of horology. The grand masters used the technologies, the tools and the means of their era in order to surpass their own knowledge and push their achievements to ever-greater heights of excellence. It is this spirit of innovation that the watchmaking tradition cultivated by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet interprets in a resolutely modern mode. This artistic approach and this vision of contemporary watchmaking are grounded on the solid foundations of technical knowledge, well-mastered expertise and a culture nurtured by several centuries of history and enriched with all kinds of beauty.

 

This creation features references to the imposing tower clocks that are still enthroned in certain European cities and which have been an infinite source of inspiration for horologists wishing to convey their beauty and their grandeur through the ages.

 

Table clocks or grandfather clocks, pocket watches and now wristwatches: the very essence of this horological culture graces the dial of the DB25T, notably in the aesthetic work on materials, the engraving and the light effects, but also and above all through consistently demonstrated miniaturisation technology.

 

The round case of the DB25 and its elegantly openworked lugs frame a polished and blued titanium sky adorned with hand-engravings on solid gold and representing the 12 zodiac signs. These symbols, which are an integral part of the aesthetic and artistic world of horology, lend a sense of infinity to the depth of the De Bethune star-studded sky.

 



 

The radiance instilled by the silver-toned guilloché decoration radiating from the dial centre contributes to the multiple shimmering light effects on the finely grained rings, and on the openworked polished yellow gold hands.

 

The technical nature and the high frequency of the DB2109 mechanism driving the jumping seconds display makes a striking contrast with the almost poetic delicacy with which this large blue hand finely points to every second. De Bethune wished to revive the traditions of the golden age of horology by infusing this movement with the soul and the majesty of the great historical regulator clocks. “Jumping seconds” was a natural choice to impart a noble cadence to the passing of time. The components are pared down to essentials and feature simplicity where required and complexity where necessary.

 

A deltoid-shaped bridge adorned with the “Côtes De Bethune” motif supports the central seconds hand, while a double lever with four pallets drives the double gold wheel of this “jumping seconds”. The latter performs an impressive mechanical ballet rendered technically feasible by new technologies, but which is bound to thrill the heart – and mind – of any devotee of classical mechanisms.

 



 

Further enhancing this intensely private performance visible exclusively on the back of the watch, De Bethune has equipped the DB2109 with its silicon-titanium tourbillon making one rotation every 30 seconds at the optimal frequency of 36,000 vph. This ultra-light tourbillon comprises 63 parts, of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 grams and the heaviest 0.0276 grams!

 

A light, airy style expressing a profound underlying idea. The subtle gyrations of the tourbillon carriage and the ample, steady beat of the seconds. Refined decorations and well-balanced lines: this creation embodies the very essence of horological emotions, along with a form of absolute and uncompromising beauty.

 

 

DB25T Zodiac

DB25TWS3V3

20-piece limited edition

 

Functions

Hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – movement operating indicator at 12 o’clock – tourbillon with 30-second indication on the back

 

Movement

DB2109 calibre – mechanical hand-wound movement

Power reserve: 4 days

 

Case

White gold, drum-shaped – diameter 44 mm – thickness 10, 6 mm

Attachments: hollowed lugs

Crystal: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment

Crown at 3 o’clock – setting in two positions

Back: open – De Bethune 30" silicon/titanium Tourbillon, 36,000 vph – central jumping seconds Calibre DB2109

 

Display

Dial: guilloché silver-toned – silver-toned hours and minutes rings – De Bethune star-studded sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with solid white gold stars, featuring solid gold inserts hand-engraved by artist Michèle Rothen representing the 12 zodiac signs

Hands: yellow gold hours and minutes hand, jumping seconds hand in hand-polished and blued steel.

 

Strap

Navy blue – extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle

 

 

DB2109 calibre

 

Movement: mechanical hand-wound movement

Functions: hours – minutes – central jumping seconds – movement operating indicator at 12 o’clock – tourbillon with 30-seconds indication on the back

 

Diameter 30 mm – 320 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – Côtes De Bethune – blued titanium bridges and parts

 

Self-regulating twin barrel*

Silicon/white gold balance – balance-spring with flat terminal curve *

De Bethune silicon/titanium 36,000 vph 30-second tourbillon*

Central jumping seconds*

Silicon escape-wheel*

 

Jewelling: 50 jewels

Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour

Power reserve: 4 days

 

* Manufacture De Bethune patents and innovations








More posts: DB25TDe BethuneOpenworkedRoyal OakVoutilainenZodiac

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[SiHH 2015] De Bethune DB25T Zodiac

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 18th, 2015-06:40
Well, as the teaser presumed and Mo let us imagine, De Bethune has just announced a new DB25T. You remember some time ago, De Bethune launched in a very limited number a DB25T whith 5 days of PR, a Jumping Second mechanism and their ultra-light 36.000 vph...  

I much prefer the backside. And the case, too.

 
 By: amanico : January 18th, 2015-06:46
But the dial... Well, it won't give me nightmares. I expected much better. That is the problem with teasers. They should keep their promises, and when they don't... Best, Nicolas

I would not say "with teasers" but with "De Bethune"

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 18th, 2015-06:53
They master so many fields of the technical area that we expect to see DB16 or DB28 Maxichrono everytime a novelty is launched. But, firstly, I think it is hard to do and, secondly, I think it would not be a good thing for reasons your understand I'm sure... 

Yeah

 
 By: tom2517 : January 18th, 2015-08:06
it's a bit of a let down, hopefully Debethune got something else in store.

Well,I might be biased but `I love what I see..

 
 By: moc : January 18th, 2015-13:47
In the same spirit of the "Mayan underworld"depicting a mayan calendar with no real purpose other than the magnificent craftsmanship of the solid gold dial and the Chinese zodiac series,this watch has a lot of integrity. Like the tower clock of St Mark sq... 

To be clear, I love this watch too Mo...

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 18th, 2015-13:55
... the DB25T was really one of my favorite DB (not overloaded aesthetically, the very best of the blued dial and very technical with hidden complications). Here, the dial is even better and is crafted like rarely seen in watchmaking today. And you're so ... 

I spoke to Denis Flageollet of DB and no extra indication could be added due to

 
 By: alex : January 23rd, 2015-01:28
Lack of space in the movement. But c'mon guys we have a truly stunning dead beat seconds tourbillon with a 5 day power reserve and a phenomenal dial!!!

I agree

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 23rd, 2015-02:20
Hi Alex I completly agree on the whole watch as I loved the DB25T "1st edition": homogene, complicated but not show-off, original etc... The new dial is something I think prettier than the original one (even if less discreet, less classic). So, a big hit ... 

San Marco clock's zodiac chart is NOT solely decorative !

 
 By: Goldenlutin : January 18th, 2015-23:14
The zodiac chart of the Piazza San Marco clock is fully functionnal, not just meant to be good looking or decorative !!!

You are right....

 
 By: moc : January 19th, 2015-00:04
I wrote it wrong,I didn't mean that the Venetian clock is only decorative,but that it inspired ,maybe,this dial. Mo

Here is a wristshot

 
 By: foversta : January 18th, 2015-15:31
Fx ...  

You're the best

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 19th, 2015-02:01
It looks fantastic (maybe bigger?) Thanks a lot for the wristshot Fx, I hope you have a good (and busy) time. Cheers, Mark

Why not making a real zodiac chart?

 
 By: Goldenlutin : January 18th, 2015-23:25
This looks more like an expensive and beautiful version of a souvenir watch to me (see picture :) ). While the craftsmanship is really exquisite, one can expect at this price level a fully functional zodiac chart... I would have prefer that they drop the ...  

I think that's a matter of taste...

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 19th, 2015-02:07
Well, I think you spoted it the right way. As Mo said in his reply it is an example of very fine and poetic craftmanship from DB and it is perfectly coherent with what the brand did in the past. Of course, as you do, I would have loved to have a working i... 

Here's the official press release of the De Bethune DB25T Zodiac

 
 By: AnthonyTsai : January 19th, 2015-09:08
De Bethune DB25T Zodiac DB25TWS3V3 As the proud standard-bearer of a genuinely exclusive approach to Haute Horlogerie, the DB25T makes innovation the very heart of its construction reflecting a proud horological tradition. Innovation has always been the t...  

Thanks a lot Anthony! [nt]

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 19th, 2015-09:10

A few photos...

 
 By: Broussard : January 24th, 2015-01:35
A few from last weekend. The dial is stunning - I'm not quite sure I've got the white balance right, but it seems to me to be a very deep, very De Bethune blue. ...  

A beautiful dial...

 
 By: Mark in Paris : January 24th, 2015-06:09
I don't know if it is "creme" as on the picture or if it is white but it looks gorgeous. Thanks for sharing the pictures. Cheers, Mark