The point of view of an independent watchmaker

Sep 04, 2008,07:13 AM
 

First of all, thank to all of you for these posts. Such a discussion is always meaningful for both the watch collectors and the watchmakers ;-)

The question of transmission over the generations of the timepieces that we are passionated in is very important and shall be IMHO be taken into account from the design of a watch.

There are three ways for doing so :

1 : using parts and components produced on a large scale, so that it will be always possible to find spare parts in the future just by sourcing them from suppliers' stocks. In that respect, implementing ETA movement in watches is a reasonable manner to secure a quite easy after-sales follow-up.

However I guess this is not what our customers are awaiting from us :-(  !!

2 : another option is a derivation from 1:  It is producing watches with specially developped movements but in so big quantities that a certain number of pieces produced can be sacrified and used as a stock of spare parts for the surviving pieces. This can ensures the availability of spare parts for quite a long time.

Once again, this is probably not what our customers are awaiting from us. In addition, as independant we are not sized and orgnized for mass-production :-(( !!!!

3: the third way (my way ) is designing and producing  watches liable to be serviced or repaired by a reasonably talented watchmaker in one century (or more) from now.

All my watches are designed and manufactured with consideration to this. Any component used inside our movements can be produced if necessary by a single watchmaker using traditionnal watchmaking tools.

That is the reason why I do not use so called "modern" technology that could turn "obsolete" in 20 or 30 years from now. I use only established technologies that can be repeated by an isolated watchmaker in his workshop, pretty much as I did 20 years ago when restoring very old watches and clocks.

As an example, I am quite reluctant to the very recent silicium based tech (although I am convinced that this is interesting in terms of producing very accurate micro-components). As a matter of fact, this technology requires industrial equipments similar to those used in the chip industry. This will be out of reach for an isolated watchmaker and perhaps even the process itself will be forgotten in 100 years !

Considere that it is already impossible to repair a Hamilton Pulsar watch (the first LED watch) that is only 35 year old !

Our concern for the long-term future of our watches is one of the reasons that made us (Ph Dufour, K. Voutilainen, St. Forsey and myself) gather in Time Aeon so as to train a new generation of watchmakers able not only to create new watches of tomorrow but also to restore, repair and service timepieces of today.

All of this ensures very long-term follow-up even if one can foresee that the cost of this restoration could become tremedous ;-)

Lat but not least, after-sales is a serious problem,  humourously nicknamed by F.P. Journe as "the cancer of watchmaking" : even if we do not want to take care of it we HAVE to take care of it.

And the most efficient way I found to make this burden as light as possible is to design and produce VERY reliable watches, so that they come back to the workshop as less often as possible !

I hope the above will be of interest for all The Purists.

Best regards

 

Vianney Halter

 

 

 


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Servicing an independent watch in future.....

 
 By: CL : August 18th, 2008-07:42
Servicing a highly regarded independent watch is always a topic that interests me. Unlike watches from Lange, Patek, Journes and other big manufacturers......most independent watches are done by a very small team of very talented watchmakers. Classic Watc... 

I have wondered the same thing.....

 
 By: 1440 : August 18th, 2008-10:17
What will happen in the future when parts may not be available. I can only speak of one maker with any certainty. Mr. Dufour had a Japanese watchmaker in his shop when we visited last summer. He was just finishing his time there where he learned to be the... 

Japanese watchmaker for Dufour......

 
 By: CL : August 18th, 2008-10:21
wow. Very interesting. I'm glad the craft has been passed on......... Do you happen to know where this Japanese watchmaker operates? Shellman? *CL

Hi CL

 
 By: ChristianDK : August 18th, 2008-12:08
good points..............if your getting cold feet regarding your simplicity just drop me a line - I will help you.......LOL, no problem ;-) true what Al says, though that there is a japanese watch maker (quite a young man as I remember) so you should be ... 

Sorry....

 
 By: 1440 : August 19th, 2008-09:04

It's just like any other art piece

 
 By: SteveH : August 18th, 2008-12:16
Something could always go wrong with it. You'd love to have the original artist repair it (and most artists go out of their way to make sure this is available and as easy as possible) but if that's not possible, there will always be someone else who can d... 

Auction houses should not do this..

 
 By: bernard cheong : August 18th, 2008-20:51
" And after verifying with friends, it's true that auction house does have their watch expert opening up masterpieces to 'service' i t." Great scott!!! I agree with you CL. I would be terrified if and when they do this. I guess you are right, in some case... 

Perhaps I have more confidence in Urwerk...

 
 By: Ronald Held : August 19th, 2008-04:27
maintanance and for the Simplicity, but what of Kari's watches, which are vintage and observatory calibers?

An interesting question/concern...

 
 By: Rob : August 19th, 2008-15:37
though I would imagine though that Kari's work with these vintage movements would be relatively easily solved/replicated by his fellow Aeon Time group which was formed to support each other technically? At least that was to my understanding from reading t... 

Time Aeon

 
 By: Gary G : August 19th, 2008-18:25

Thanks Rob...My main concern is

 
 By: CL : August 19th, 2008-20:40
if I get a positive answer, my confidence will shoot thru the roof and will cause more damage to my wallet AHCI pieces are really tempting. Lovesss*CL

Isn't the answer...

 
 By: pplater : August 20th, 2008-08:28
...inherent in the re-generation of the profession itself? When we look back on the careers of many of today's great watchmakers we find often that they served their 'apprenticeship', as it were, repairing and restoring valuable and complicated pieces of ... 

The point of view of an independent watchmaker

 
 By: vianney : September 4th, 2008-07:13
First of all, thank to all of you for these posts. Such a discussion is always meaningful for both the watch collectors and the watchmakers ;-) The question of transmission over the generations of the timepieces that we are passionated in is very importan...