Swatch and HW

Jul 30, 2014,11:46 AM
 

You just mentioned that HW was bought by the Swatch Group last year, sad news. But this is also giving more credentials for those, who remain independent. Isn't this sub forum all about them. What I really find fascinating about PARM is how they changed their game in less than 20 years, from el primero calibers to the hegirian calendar. 

This is about Vaucher from David Bredan: "While visiting this Manufacture I could see key components that would later go into watches priced in or above the $50,000-$100,000 range. The reason why some brands prefer not to disclose who they work with is a complex - and rather weird - issue, worthy of a dedicated article. Nonetheless, despite complicated confidentiality agreements and any marketing ideology one can think of, I still consider this to be a bad decision. To keep my reasoning as short as possible, I will just say that the level of professionalism and dedication VMF harnesses during production is something any brand could - and should - be proud of; even if they do not own the company, just co-operate with them. In essence, I just hope that in the future brands will continue to emphasize their merit in creating their own concepts and designs and not shy away from disclosing which high-end manufacture is making the parts that they dreamed up."

Full article here.


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Quick review: Parmigiani Kalpa Steel

 
 By: de Owar : July 29th, 2014-11:21
This is a quick overview about the watch I've been searching for more than a year! All of us are in a constant quest for the grail(s), or onlywatch, but I would rather define this timepiece as a fits-for-all-occasions signature watch. (One might not wear ...  

Neither PP nor Breguet ever used a Parmigiani/Vaucher movement

 
 By: Goldenlutin : July 29th, 2014-15:17
Parmigiani/Vaucher never ever ever produced a movement for PP, Chopard nor Breguet. You must be confusing hair spring and movement. Atokalpa (which also belongs to the group) produces apparently hair spring sfor PP and Chopard too. But this is not a confi... 

OK, thanks for your reply

 
 By: de Owar : July 29th, 2014-22:18
I should've written Richard Mille, Harry Winston and Hermés instead. I'll look after those articles, mainly written after visits at Vaucher in Fleurier, where this info came from. Of course little has been officialy confirmd. But would be also important t... 

+1. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : July 29th, 2014-22:20

This is an interview with Michel Parmigiani

 
 By: de Owar : July 30th, 2014-06:21
You're right, as for Chopard, production is not mentioned, just movement design. Vaucher is making movements for 15 brands, PP, Breguet are not among those, but for sure they provide for Hermés, Corum, RIchard Mille and Harry Winston. I've already seen m... 

I think you can now remove HW as it was bought by SG...

 
 By: Goldenlutin : July 30th, 2014-08:53
In addition to your post it is also important to note that Parmigiani buys (and does therefore not produce itself) most of its complicated movements from Renaud Papi (AP) and Christophe Claret. Parmigiani often forget to mention this :) They even describe... 

Swatch and HW

 
 By: de Owar : July 30th, 2014-11:46
You just mentioned that HW was bought by the Swatch Group last year, sad news. But this is also giving more credentials for those, who remain independent. Isn't this sub forum all about them. What I really find fascinating about PARM is how they changed t... 

Nice review

 
 By: BCHH : July 30th, 2014-13:54
Nice review - the movement used in this watch is the industrialised version of the older Pf full-rotor automatic with the solid gold rotor (caliber designation escapes me now) This one comes with the steel rotor right? Vaucher does indeed produce for PP -... 

THANK YOU BCHH

 
 By: de Owar : July 31st, 2014-02:04
Now this is very clear now, at least as clear as this could be, with so many brands not revealing where components came from. You're right this comes with the skeletonized steel rotor, the solid golden rotor serves golden case models. While that golden ro... 

de Owar, I know what you mean...

 
 By: BCHH : July 31st, 2014-15:01
I know what you mean about brands not revealing where components came from.. I know all 17 brands that utilise Vaucher for production but obviously cannot reveal most of them apart from the disclosed ones like Hermes, RM, Corum (golden bridge) etc. Person... 

Thank you again for the great insider info!

 
 By: de Owar : August 1st, 2014-02:42
The term in-house, while being important, is totally overrated and misinterpreted. Great ébauches, with someone's own developments, personal additions can absolutely outperform an in-house movement and can add much more value, than using an unstable, unre... 

I totally agree with you

 
 By: BCHH : August 6th, 2014-13:58
I definitely prefer a real watchmaker who modifies and finishes an ebauche, rather than some fake in-house chicanery (a recent fiasco over a young brand's release comes to mind). Of the former category, watchmakers like Dirk Dornblueth and Pascal Coyon co... 

Very nice watch !

 
 By: gael_bx : July 31st, 2014-07:00
thanks

Thank you!!

 
 By: de Owar : July 31st, 2014-10:31
The case is very intriquing in the flash, as its curves are reflecting lights. I would discribe this case as a tonneau, but a very unique one.

on the wrist

 
 By: de Owar : July 31st, 2014-10:40
...  

That's the proper environment...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : August 8th, 2014-06:10
works particularly well with your shirt! Thanks for sharing, Magnus