Ornatus-Mundi[Zenith]
7136
The Ochs und Junior watch No. 1: The Anno 50 - the annual calender reduced to the max!
Dec 21, 2008,06:32 AM
Dear All:
One word in advance. The watches depicted below are prototypes, however, they are very true to the final watches. Please remember that the watches shall not hide their production processes...
The first watch to present is the Anno 50, and annual calender watch with a new mechanism developed by Ludwig Oechslin.
While the
MIH watch already was a much applauded and celebrated annual calender (calenders which automatically take into account the different month lengths except February, where they have to be set manually regardless of leap year or not) with a mechanism comprising only nine (!) additional moving parts, Vico has topped himself with this innovation:
The annual calender mechanism of the Anno 50 needs only
three moving parts!!! Other brands need 30 to 40 parts for the similar mechanisms...
The display of the date is implemented by three circles with altogether 50 dots (hence the name of the watch, right?). A large circle in the circumference of the dial with 31 dots for the date. Two small circles in the inner part of the dial show the month (top, 12 dots) and the weekday (bottom, 7 dots). You can decide yourself which dot represents monday:
Albeit the system is quite unusual, but one gets used to it quickly. The legibly will still be improved...
The case is of 43 mm diameter and (for this prototype) is made of sterling silver (thus it tarnished over time much to the pleasure of Vico). It is about 10mm thick. The case is of a sophisticated monocoque construction and can be produced on a 2-axis drilling machine.
What sounds an easy task apparently was none: Remember Ludwig draws without tolerances in mind? Logically, the case should not feature a movement holder ring. But no casemaker was in the position to produce the cases with the required tolerances and without diluting the purity of the concept. Thus, Ochs und Junior freed themselves in that they asked an old friend of Beat,
Peter Cantieni. Peter has a mechanical workshop and produces highest precision engine and suspension parts for the BMW Sauber Formula 1 racing team. He also constructed mountain bikes in the past. The right man for this task!
Now you might be in for a surprise! The above is a
finished case! Ochs und Junior does not hide the production process. See the marks from the drilling machine? They tell the story of the watch... and impressively attest to the quality of workmanship!
The dials is made of 18kt white gold...
This is actually another Ludwig Oechslin invention. In his research for an unique dial surface (without the need for chemical substances) he got a hint from a goldsmith. A well-defined time between 840 and 850°C - and the white gold turns into something like this! The hands are also made from 18kt gold - unpolished as well.
The rotor of the automatic movement is treated the same a the dial:
This brings me to the movement: It is a movement with 100h autonomy entirely newly created by
Paul Gerber! Paul is responsible for putting Ludwig's ideas into working watches. He understands how Ludwig thinks and can improve upon his concepts without deviating from the intellectual beauty. Industrialisation is a difficult task.
The movement comes in a matte finish with highly polished anglage. Just admire the interplay of the finishes, and the precision of the engraving!
Well, hat's it for the moment. But there is a second watch as well...
Best,
Magnus