Independents

SJX
[Purist]
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An interview: A connoisseur of independent watchmaking and his magnificent collection

A collector with a splendid collection of timepieces from independent makers speaks to us at length about his collection and philosophy.

All inept Photoshop effects are my responsibility. The gentleman in the photo with the slightly jaundiced complexion may or may not be the collector in question. 

SJX : What attracts you to watches from independent makers?

Anon : I think it is the emotion that I get when I see them. I came to a point where I have become quite jaded and wary of commercialism. Independents for me still exude a certain purity that is lacking [in the wider industry] and that is refreshing. This purity is transferred into how they approach their work and is present in their creations.

SJX : The definition of an independent watchmaker varies – what is your personal definition of the term?

Anon : Ability, confidence and freedom to create whatever comes [to mind], without being answerable to a board or shareholders.

The tip of the iceberg 

SJX : But by that definition, won’t brands like pre-LVMH takeover Hublot be considered independent as well?

Anon : You are correct that it would be, based on the definition of independent watchmaker that I have outlined above. However, Hublot does not fit into my criteria for independent watches.

First, they do not evoke the same emotions in me that a Roger Smith or a Philip Dufour [does]. Second, the overtly commercial leanings of the watch, the marketing fluff accompanying it as well as the high numbers in relation to real independent watches all smack of commercialism. As such, at least in my book, they do not come across as an independent in the true sense of the word.

SJX : Do you feel that the number of new watch companies has somewhat cheapened the term independent watchmaker? You have brands springing up selling repackaged movements from specialists, claiming to be “independents” and charging a commensurately independent price. 

Anon : In a word, yes. Much like bespoke has sort of become overused in the fashion industry, independents as related to watchmaking has indeed become cheapened. Being an independent is to me at least not a firm set of parameters. It is a state of mind, a set of values, and this comes across and manifests itself in the watches. You know it when you see it.

SJX : And you mentioned bespoke clothes – has your pursuit of independent watches led you to similar makers in other products like shoes or suits?

Anon : I do appreciate finely made clothes and shoes. In time, I imagine I would explore it further by one day going bespoke but for now, am content buying off the rack. I like Beams and United Arrows in Tokyo, almost everything by American Apparel, shoes made by both Camper and Martin Margiela as well as some of the stuff by Commes de Garcons. I am quite comfortable with what they offer and see no reason just yet to go higher in the clothing hierarchy.

SJX : Your collection of watches from independent watchmakers is impressive, but you also have outstanding watches made by larger companies – Patek, Lange, AP. How do products from the independents compare with those from brands?

Anon : Would you say that a bespoke or hand-made pair of shoes better done? Or a tailored, made to measure suit for that matter? The answer really depends on whether the person being asked is qualified to answer in the first place.

I think it boils down to the attention given. And when loving hands infused with passion focus on something, more often than not, the end result is something the machine-like perfection offered by Lange, VC or AP could never hope to surpass. Add to that the vision of the independent going against the giants of the industry by toiling at his craft whilst hunched over his old table is compelling enough to tilt the balance, for me at least.

SJX : That is often the widespread idea of the independent, of the lone watchmaker, or elf, at his table in a cottage covered in snow high up in the alps. But the reality is that many independent watchmakers run enterprises that not only make watches under their own name, but also make movements and even whole watches for others. Some are successful business people, an extreme example being Franck Muller who was one of the earliest AHCI members.

Anon : That certainly blows my mind that it could be possible but if it is, then I can safely say that I am even more impressed and in awe of them. For not only producing watches that are part of their soul but to skilfully dodge the conundrum facing some of the more mainstream brands that have sold out, [and become] too available, too commercialized, too big. There is a part in all of us which roots for the small guy who is caught in the fight against a behemoth. I believe independents and their watches tap into this part of our psyche, knowingly or unknowingly.

SJX : Do you think there exists a point where the watchmaker transitions from being an independent to a brand? Do you consider Franck Muller an independent watchmaker, being an AHCI member?

Anon : Definitely. The AHCI membership is just a tag. Just as a person is solely identified by his citizenship through his passport. However, his heritage and values are determined by how he carries himself.

In this light, once an independent watchmaker transitions to outsourcing parts on a larger scale than usual, has in-house logistical teams organizing his world-tour for new watches, has an entourage meeting him at airports and hotels, demands and gets a bigger slot in the shop windows of his retail partners amongst other telltale signs of making it big on watch industry standards, then the independent watchmaker has morphed into a brand. So FM in my opinion is a brand.

There are a few out there who are close to crossing over to this side. However, as long as they continue to create watches that mimic their initial output when they were smaller, then they might be able to pull off what I consider to be their ‘Independence Day’, a successful crossover into mainstream awareness without losing their independent appeal.

SJX : It is unusual for someone who collects watches from larger, traditional brands like Patek to also enjoy independent watchmakers, especially the cutting edge ones like Urwerk. Why do you think your collection has grown in this manner?

Anon : For lack of a better word, I got bored with the offerings of Patek and other mainstream watch companies that somehow seem to lack the innovation exhibited by the newer guys on the block and as such, don’t impart their soul as much as the indies do.

Make no mistake, I would still opt to go for Patek when I am looking for a perpetual chronograph or to Lange for chronographs but I seem to have outgrown the tried and true, been there-done that phases, termed as classics by some, phase of my collecting and find myself drawn more to alternative ways of telling time.

It is also nice to not find my watches being worn by every Tom, Dick and Harry on the street. Where I work, Patek and the other watch houses are very well represented and independent watch sightings are as rare as… well, let’s just say it’s pretty darn rare. And that is much preferred.

SJX : Your collection of independent watches consists of a variety of styles, ranging from the classical like Dufour to the modern, Urwerk, Vianney Halter. Can you tell us why these disparate styles both appeal to you?

Anon : At the end of the day, wearing independents is all about emotion. The examples above all appeal in different ways, stoking different aspects of me whenever I strap one on but perhaps the underlying theme common to them all is the sense of connection I get whenever I wear them. In a sense, I feel that by wearing these watches, the makers are with me in the daily adventure of life and that gives me a pleasant feeling.

SJX : You mention the emotion – do you think that affects buyer’s judgements? In the sense that a buyer will be more easily satisfied with an inferior product from an independent watchmaker than if it came from a large brand? Just because it comes from an independent watchmaker.

Anon : I agree that it does. It can sway people either towards or away from places where they aren’t sure of themselves or delving deeper into areas where they are quite passionate about. Emotion can most certainly cloud one’s rationale in buying watches amongst other material objects. Based on that premise, the newbie indeed is most at risk in opting to get an independent’s watch just because it is so, even if it potentially is an inferior product. However, as I had mentioned, the true purveyor of Independent watches is a seasoned collector and can easily separate the wheat from the chaff.

SJX : Who is your favourite independent?

Anon : There isn’t just one but to narrow it down, it would have to be Kari [Voutilainen]. He is so because after spending some time with him and wearing his watches, I believe he has gotten it right. They are the actual and readily perceived transference of his vision and emotion to something tangible that his customers can wear and thus feel. The future looks bright for him.

Left: Kari Voutilainen 

SJX : What is your dream watch from an independent watchmaker? Is it on order?

Anon : My dream watch is something special, is on order and I look forward to picking it up soon. I will share [it] with you then when it arrives. It stands to be the culmination and bookend to this phase [of collecting].

SJX : Do you think this crisis heralds the end of what some have called a golden age in watchmaking over the last 10 years, thanks to the huge amounts of money being spent by buyers?

Anon : If golden age is to be defined as making money [or] selling watches by putting any name on a dial, slap in some complications brought from complications specialists, rehash the old stuff and repackage as new, garner new market share by lulling in new collectors via billions of multi-media marketing, then yes, it is over.

However, I firmly believe that in fact, the new golden age of watchmaking is upon us. The wannabes, posers as well as [false] manufactures will be spit out onto watch wasteland. What will remain standing will be watch houses as well as independents dedicated to a core of innovation, chronometry and finishing that will truly astound the collectors in the years to come.

SJX : There is a lot less discretionary spending in the world now, how do you think it will affect independent watchmaking specifically?

Anon : Independents will not be affected as much as the mainstream brands. My thinking is that their watches are not picked up by newbies or speculators but are purchased by collectors who have seen through the marketing hype of the watch behemoths. This outlook and support by the seasoned collector should be enough to see the Independents through the current economic turmoil.

SJX : How do you think the field of independent watchmakers will look in 5 to 10 years?

Anon : I think that the work of the independents will be given due recognition by a critical mass in the next 5 to 10 years. Now this will still not result in major commercial success for the indies but will be much better than their lot today. This will be the result of the incoming backlash against overly commercial pieces as collectors increase their horological knowledge through PuristS and other media and as such, become more discriminating, naturally seeking better pieces.

SJX : Who amongst the current crop do you think will become the icons and legends of tomorrow?

Anon : Kari as I mentioned above.

Romain [Gauthier] should flourish as he is using not only his heart but also his brain to flourish in this traditionally emotion filled segment of the watch industry.

Left: Romain Gauthier 

Journe will be even more of the legend that he is, being the first to cross over to mainstream watch culture as well as being the first really commercially successful Independent. His main problem would be to separate the persona from the brand as time goes by.

Right: Francois-Paul Journe 

Urwerk for their pioneering work of alternative timekeeping using vintage reworked movements. As long as they retain the humility needed to stay in this industry for the long run, they should continue to reap the rewards. Realize that they are where they are with the help of other people and they will be even greater than they are.

Roger Smith will continue to be the torch-bearer for English watchmaking.

De Bethune should be good as long as they continue their innovations and maintain their focus.

Max [Busser & Friends] will also be an icon. For what he started and continues to do. The transparency he brought to the industry [by naming his subcontractors and suppliers] has changed its face forever.

SJX: While it may be noble as a craftsman to remain small, if the independent watchmakers don’t institutionalise their brands, the brands may not outlive the watchmaker. Do you ever worry about future servicing or repair of your watches from independent watchmakers?

Anon : I actually do not worry about repair work. Independent watches are mostly handmade and thus can be repaired by right set of hands. The recently organized Time Aeon satisfies this would be concern quite adroitly.

SJX : A few independents showcased products during SIHH in Geneva last month, what did you see that you liked?

Anon : MBF’s titanium ceramic HM2 caught my eye. Debethune’s Dream Watches are what they are, real dream Watches. I really admire their guts and vision to constantly push the envelope in innovations whilst maintaining their attention to detail and finishing.

Right: Maximilian Busser

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